federal 1500 skis/new bungees

[low-n-slow]

Currently have the L-16 in for Overhaul, going with c/85-0200 crank etc STC. Once it is flying again, thinking about putting the federal 1500 skis back on that have been in storage for 30 years. Does anyone know the best place to get plastic bottoms, new bushings, bungees etc needed to get back on skis? very much looking forward to "New engine"

[big chief 48]

jon, Hi, I'm from Duluth. I got the plastic from a place in Duluth called Seely plastics down under the Blatnik High Bridge, in the industrial park. They have every kind of plastic imagined. The black stuff is super hard and withstands rocks and stuff, but in the late winter, they absorb heat and your airplane will "sink" into the snow. The white stuff is a little softer, but will last 4-6 years depending on if you abuse the bottoms. The bushings are available through univair (mine) or I think most ski manufactures have them due to thier common size. The bungee's you can get from wag-aero, they were nice and reasonably priced. You'll have to get the length right and use the hog rings provided. Have fun with the new engine. I'll have to check it out, cause I will be going the C-85/O200 route myself in the next few years!!

[Dusty]

The plastic is UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight). Glass stores generally have it. I would NOT trust anything else - things are going to get UGLY if something decides to depart at an inopportune time, and UHMW is THE ONLY material that really holds up to abuse in the cold.

Radiator hose has been RUMORED to make really nice bushings. Others are soggy and make for pigeon-toed skis.

Atlee Dodge is the source for bungee-replacement springs.

[low-n-slow]

Thanks for information. I will give an update on how the Engine performs after the overhaul is complete. Should be ready to go later this week. Meanwhile I can be getting the ski's out of storage and dusting them to see what they need... If existing metal bottoms appear to be in good shape will they work fine without putting the plastics bottoms on?

[big chief 48]

The plain metel works in warm temps 25 plus, but when it get cold the steel bottoms stick like super glue. If you are not going to put plastic bottoms on (which give you better float on snow--1 inch wider then ski) then put some duct tape on the bottoms for better glide and no stick. Worked for me for a couple of years. Just don"t run it in dirt. Electrical tape glides better, but doesn't stick worth a s--t. Hey if ya have any questions or want to go somewhere this winter (voyagers national park?) give me a ring 218-213-6030 john---

[low-n-slow]

couple more questions on the plastic bottoms:
-How thick of UHMW?
-Do you typically go 1" wider and longer then the existing metal bottoms?
-I am assuming they get fastened to the existing metal bottoms?
-Whats the best method of fastening? from top? bottom?
-What do you do for a skeg?

I can get the UHMW from any # of plastics suppliers in the twin cities, just looking for tips on how big of project it will be to put the new bottoms on?

P.S. Just got word the "new) engine will be ready to bore holes in the sky on friday. Really anxious to see what kind of performance it has with the 0200 crank, pistons etc...

[low-n-slow]

Big chief,
If you get down to the Brainerd area, stop in at my dads private strip. its on the south east end of Gull Lake, directly east of the dam. Thats where our L-16 has been hangared for the last 30 years. His strip is 2000 feet with trees on both ends, but is still easy to get in and out of. Never flown to voyagers but sure sounds like fun... if we get the skis on, hoping to make it to the Walker eepout festival flyin, aitken skiplane flyin etc. There are some great pictures on the www.treetopflyers.org website of the eelpout festival flyin.....

[Dusty]

I use 3/16. I do like a little overhang.

Mine are fastened with bolts (#8? #10?) and countersink washers from the bottom. A bolt every 2 inches or so, and a 1/4" bolt through the front and rear for my cable brackets and skegs. I've also seen them riveted.

My current skegs are full-length 1" + 1/8 (?) steel held on with a few rivplates and bolts. My next ones will be a short strip of Ptex in the middle.

It's not a big project, as long as you have flat bottoms and/or lots of clamps. And beer.

BC48: Duct tape? You MUST have Alaskan roots!

[Nathan K. Hammond]

1/8" is too thin
3/16" is perfect
1/4" is overkill and heavy

On Federal's, you can drill out every 3'rd rivet on the perimeter and do like Dusty said: #8-#10 countersunk screw and washer from the bottom side and lock it with a fiber lock nut on top. The lock nuts are handy because your boots grip them a little better when getting in/out and you don't slip as easy. You can extend the plastic 10% around the edge leagally; but most go for 1"-3" over hang. If you use 2" or more of overhang, take a pair of seamers and bend the edge of the plastic up so when you're sliding sideways, it's less likely to snag.

nkh