C-85 with 0200 STC , Cool Oil Temp

[low-n-slow]

I have about 5 hours on newly built up C-85/0200 conversion, so far it is a noticeably different animal. Take off roll is definently shorter, climb seems better etc. The only issue so far is getting the oil temp up to around the magical 180 degrees. To this point, the oil cooler cover (under the prop) is on, the blast tube to the oil tank is taped shut, and about the 1st 1/3rd of the inlet openings are taped over (closest to prop, not outboard) None of this has helped much as the oil temp has gone from 140 degrees prior these items to around 150 after. Out side ambient temperature has been around 25-35 degrees during this process so it has been a little chilly I have read about blocking off the bottom air exit opening but need to ask if this is the next recomended step? If so, are there detail drawings of what this "Baffle" should look like?
As always, thanks in advance for the help and thoughtful insight!

[MikeB]

Jon, I just installed a lower baffle (exit) cover that I made today. Didn't get
to try it as I had other things going on, but the prototype I made last year seemed to bring the oil temperature up some. Not up to 180 though, maybe 165. Basically, it just covers the outlet. I made mine with a hinged panel thinking that at some time I might control the size of the opening with a cable (like a cowl flap, I guess). Right now the oil drain hose is sticking through the panel, but I can move it at a later date if I need. This one is sort of a prototype, too .

The L16 manual shows the outlet plate/cover and I think Jody had a photo of one he made back in the archivies someplace. I can take a photo of my 'masterpiece' and post it if you need.

It might work pretty well on the 85's. The 65's are hard to keep the temperature up on, probably because they run slower and burn less fuel.

Us guys who live in the 'north woods' need to be tough .

Mike berg

[Mnflyer]

Hi Jon heres a site that maybe of some help, I have a lower cowl plate and all the other winterization covers installed and last week when it was 19*F my oil temp only made it up to 145 / 150*F, I think to get it higher one will have to also install the oiltank cover as that will keep what warmth there is in the oil in the tank.

http://home.comcast.net/~petegavin/Aeronca_Stuff/

[gcgilpin]

Jon, would you mind sharing static RPM numbers before and after the conversion (also what prop you're using)?

There are alot of us out here curious about the performance improvement that the O200 crank STC gets you.

[low-n-slow]

Mike,
If you could post a pic of your "prototype" with the hinges that would be great. It appears like the baffle shown in Pete gavins Photos would be fairly easy to make, but maybe yours is better

As far as performances stats, I need to fly a few more hours until firmer numbers can be given. Initial static rpm, take off roll and climb out is showing 2300'ish with level flight 2550 ish. The engine definently sounds different and seems to have more pep. So far so good....

[gcgilpin]

Jon, what are you using for a prop?

[MikeB]

Jon,
I'm headed down toward the airport this morning and will post a picture later this afternoon. If you're still breaking in a 'green engine' you certainly want to keep the temperature up to avoid glazing the cylinders.
It was 10 degrees here this morning and expecting 25mph winds............brrrrrr........no flying today . Probably colder where you are at.

Mike Berg

[MikeB]

Jon,
Here's photo of the outlet baffle. Still sort of in the development stage. It should probably be fit tighter, but I made it at home off an old pattern. As I mentioned previously, I hinged a panel with the idea of somehow being able to move it like a cowl flap, but doubt I'll get around to it now (too cold at the airport/no heat). Right now the oil drain tube is hanging through it, but I could reposition if necessary.

BTW (before anyone asks) There is a reason I have a pipe plug in the bottom of my drain hose with a clamp around it . The quck drain leaked on one of our Champs so this prevents that from happening.

Hope this helps!

Mike Berg

[Tim Juhl]

My C85 with the 0-200 crank & etc has always run cool. You can just about forget about getting the oil temps up to 180 in the winter unless you seal off the cowling completely Even in summertime my engine runs cool unless it is a really hot day.

My static RPM is around 2300 and I can exceed redline at full throttle in level flight. I run a Sensenich W72GK44 which is somewhat of a climb prop. Common props are the W72GK46 & W72GK48 if you want more speed.

I have a 1300 foot strip and appreciate the great TO and climb performance that I get.

Tim

[low-n-slow]

I will post prop information when I get back, going to be out of the country for a couple weeks. Sorry I don't recall specs offhand.

Thanks for the photo Mike! I think I will try something similar.

[low-n-slow]

prop is MCcauley CM7142. It was a CM7144 but found paperwork where it was repitched a few years ago.

Hopefully get it on skis soon and get a chance to fly the Brainerd lakes area...

[MikeB]

For your information: I've only made a couple of flights since I put the lower cover on, but seem to be able to get the oil temp up around 170 or so with a outside ambient temp of 20-25 degrees. That's after 1/2 hour of flying.
I've heard or read where others have 'cooked' cylinders by restricting the outlet. I'm guessing you have to watch things pretty carefully and opt on the cool side rather than high. I suppose a cylinder temperature gauge would be helpful also. Not sure which is worse, cooking a cylinder or shock cooling it........either way..... .

We have several inches of new snow so I'm hoping to do some ski flying soon.

Mike Berg