oil filters

[leeport33]

Anyone ever use the Kelly Aerospace oil filters ?? 85hp cont. -12 engine
some mention of an anti drainback valve and my filter sits on its side
of course, so back in the sump the junk goes of course. I'm not much
on paper filters anyway. Only filter I have ever seen that works is
a Lubrifiner on my Cummins Diese Engine. was full of cotton material
and actually cleaned the oil. this was the older Lubrifiner not the new
one with the paper in it. New aint always better. Just my thoughts in the
matter and dont mean they are right. Tempest oil filter is out there also
and I have never used that one either. Just the champion that costs more
then all the rest and likely not any better being full of folded paper. My
A I said change oil filters every other oil change as the dirt in the filter
helps make it work better. What kind of deal is that ? any comments
on all of this stuff. Thank you for any input.

[joea]

Never used one of these, but am using the Airwolf system that uses a normal Champion CH48108 oil filter.

That said almost any filter would be better than the screen that is on the stock Continental engines!

Joe

[leeport33]

Thanks Joe,
I agree, almost anything is better then the screen. I thought the anti
drainback idea was a good one with the Kelly oil filter, but maybe its
something that can get in the way. dont know how. I use the Champ
filter like the one you are using now as I was told by my A I to use that
one, so being a good listener thats what I do. Thanks for the come back.

[MikeB]

Boy! That's a new one I never heard of "dirt in the filter makes it work better", but then there's a lot of things I never heard of. Can't imagine why anyone would change the filter every other time and leave all the dirty oil and crud to mix with the new clean oil although I know you always have some residule oil in the system. The old 'lubrifiner' on the diesel engines was a 'by pass' filter that kind of operated on the principle that eventually all the oil in the system would pass through it (oil off the main gallery, through the filter and dumped back into the crankcase). Early Chevrolets (1950's 6 cylinders) used the same system. I'm assuming the add on filters that replace the oil screens are 'full flow' which is a much better system when all is said and done.

Mike Berg

[leeport33]

I thought someone might have used the Kelly filter as it sounds good
with the idea of a none return valve in there, to keep old "dirty" oil from
falling back into the sump and keeps the filter full so oil pressure will come
up faster. Thats my thought in the matter anyways. My engine builds
oil pressure pretty fast anyway. I use Marvel mystery oil in the oil and
also 4 oz per 10 gals of gas. sure keeps things working nice. fuel valves
etc. just click in place and makes everything work like its supposed to.
Lots of additives out there, but this is one that really works. not just
my idea of course. still waiting for a comment on kelly oil filters, must
be someone out there that has used them.

[Nathan K. Hammond]

http://joea.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1293

nkh

[leeport33]

Hey Joe.
thanks for the thing on the Kelly oil filters. Man what a bummer of a deal
with the 140 and my thoughts of the oil filter they have with the none
return valve. Looks like they have more problems with other things
also and one needs to keep clear of that outfit. Will stick with Champion
and be a lot safer with it. I thought the none return valve was a good
idea and it may very well be with another company doing the work.
Will also look at the brace thing for the oil tank and see whats being
said about that little number. Well, as long as man keeps making
machines there will be a need for repair. the Cessna 140 with the engine
full of small rubber pieces is a real problem and what an expense of
tearing everything down to take a look, even if you do it your self. Bummer.. Thanks Joe for the education.

[Nathan K. Hammond]

My A/I said change oil filters every other oil change as the dirt in the filter helps make it work better. What kind of deal is that?

It's actually true, to a point. Airplane filters are somewhere around the 25 micron range, but can let particles as big as 300 microns pass because of the randomness in a paper element. As the element starts to fill with carbon, and other little bits of stuff, it effectively closes the filtration range down; say from 30 to maybe 20 microns and will fill the large voids in the element as well. The down side though, is as the element closes down, less oil will pass THROUGH the paper and more will use the By-pass valve; because it's set around 8psi. Now you have effectively eliminated the oil filter from the engine.

But... if we are talking about a swimming pool, this is exactly what you want. A pool sand filter doesn't have a pressure by-pass valve; so as it gets more dirty, there is more pressure to push the water through the element (sand.)

I'll pony up the $15 every 25hrs.

nkh

[Nathan K. Hammond]

Not to keep knocking Kelly, but "Anti-Drainback Valve" sounds like a load of crap. Is it needed; what ever it is?

If you look at the end of a filter... any filter... you'll notice the inlet ports are about 1/4" from the edge of the can. That means the metal particles would have to climb up and over the edge before going back into the engine. And then they'd have to travel uphill towards the nose of the engine.

nkh

[Captgrumps]

Tried Kelly filters once and wasn't impresssed with the quality. Cut one and it had less filter element than a Champion. They have had quality problems with some of their stuff.

Doug