I found .100 plexiglas at the local glass shop. It is used by picture framers when they have a particularly large picture and do not want the weight glass hanging on the wall.
L.P. Aero supplied .125 Plexiglas which wouldn't fit in the channels installed in my Champ. The channels are steel with the fuzz inside pushed into Aluminum channels. I don't know what was original.
Progress/moving along
Been pretty busy for the past few weeks with my 'part time job'. However, think I will have some time to work on the L16 again. I have the green house (bronze house) and rear windows cut and pretty much fit. Need to make some kind of a jig to put the proper bend in the back of the rear. BTW I used .125 Lexon. That stuff is amazing. You can bend it around 180 degrees as someone described (tried it with a scrap piece). Also, appears to drill without running a chance or cracking. I used my Dremel type airdrill with a narrow rotary blade to cut the stuff. Seemed to work pretty well without requiring too much cleanup, although I did chamfer the edges. Next will work on the retainer pieces.
MikeB
Re: Progress/moving along
I should label this "Why things aren't moving along!!". Domestic duties call and the wife of 45 years wants a new retaining wall and patio blocks off the basement behind the house. Kind of cuts into my L16 restoration time but keeps peace in the family
. Still manage to sneak out and try to get something done on the project plane every day.MikeB
-
David Johnson
- Posts: 584
- Joined: Sat Nov 20, 2004 08:28
- Location: Jasper, Georgia
- Contact:
Re: Progress/moving along
Mike, any progress lately? Everything is looking real nice so far! Got the Home List up to date yet? Hope you are doing better than me! Be good, David J.
Re: Progress/moving along
Hi Dave,
Guess I deleted the above picture of the 'home project' but as I said I manage to sneak away every now and then and work on the L16 project. I riveted the window retainer (below) to the boot cowl a week or so ago. Came from Wag Aero. Fit 'fairly well' but took a lot of forming and fitting. I've never riveted much before so it was a new experience. I'm using the old boot cowl which is generally in pretty good shape but I had to stagger drill the holes half way between the old ones which were pretty much pulled out before I got the project. Seems to have worked OK. Thank God for cleos!
I'd like to mount the fuel valves for my 5 gallon wing tanks up here like the original L16s. Not exactly in the spirit of the STC but I'd feel a lot better being able to shut the fuel off closer to the tank rather than down under the dash somewhere in case of a leak. This is sort of a prototype. Need to talk to my IA and see what he thinks then maybe take it from there.
Next project will be to build a upper and lower cowl. Also trying to get as many of the dents and dings out of the door as possible. Time marches on, though .
MikeB.
Guess I deleted the above picture of the 'home project' but as I said I manage to sneak away every now and then and work on the L16 project. I riveted the window retainer (below) to the boot cowl a week or so ago. Came from Wag Aero. Fit 'fairly well' but took a lot of forming and fitting. I've never riveted much before so it was a new experience. I'm using the old boot cowl which is generally in pretty good shape but I had to stagger drill the holes half way between the old ones which were pretty much pulled out before I got the project. Seems to have worked OK. Thank God for cleos!
I'd like to mount the fuel valves for my 5 gallon wing tanks up here like the original L16s. Not exactly in the spirit of the STC but I'd feel a lot better being able to shut the fuel off closer to the tank rather than down under the dash somewhere in case of a leak. This is sort of a prototype. Need to talk to my IA and see what he thinks then maybe take it from there.
Next project will be to build a upper and lower cowl. Also trying to get as many of the dents and dings out of the door as possible. Time marches on, though
.MikeB.
Re: Progress/moving along
I guess I could call this progress/moving along and 'not'. I've pretty much finished installing the interior. Like I previously posted, I had the interior for sale but no takers so decided I might as well install it on the L16. About 10# extra weight, though. Anyway, here's the rear shot with the battery box and Airtex baggage compartment
Side shot. I still need to do some fabric trimming around the throttle plates. I wouldn't say I'd put the Airtex interior in again as it took a lot of cutting and fitting. Not to mention the extra weight but the 0200 should handle it although it certainly cuts down on the useful load.
Front
And here is the 'not moving along' or 'two steps back'.
For some unknown reason, part of the black paint didn't stick properly on the boot cowl and chipped away
. I did use a different type of primer which may have contributed to the problem or possibly it got too cold before it catalyzed (spelling??). Either way, I wasn't satified with it so I've had to strip all the new paint and primer off and start over again. I'll go back to my old dependable primer next time. Right now the boot cowl is sharing the shop with my "H" Farmall until I get it completely stripped. I'm still in the learning stage with my painting skills. What I've done looks OK until I got to this point.
I did 'bite the bullet' and did order new lift struts from Unvaire for about $1800 with the 10% discount which should pretty much pay for the trucking. I expected a increase after the first of the year so wanted to get before the price went up.......again!!
Well, back to the shop and clean some more loose paint .
Mike
Side shot. I still need to do some fabric trimming around the throttle plates. I wouldn't say I'd put the Airtex interior in again as it took a lot of cutting and fitting. Not to mention the extra weight but the 0200 should handle it although it certainly cuts down on the useful load.
Front
And here is the 'not moving along' or 'two steps back'.
For some unknown reason, part of the black paint didn't stick properly on the boot cowl and chipped away
. I did use a different type of primer which may have contributed to the problem or possibly it got too cold before it catalyzed (spelling??). Either way, I wasn't satified with it so I've had to strip all the new paint and primer off and start over again. I'll go back to my old dependable primer next time. Right now the boot cowl is sharing the shop with my "H" Farmall until I get it completely stripped. I'm still in the learning stage with my painting skills. What I've done looks OK until I got to this point. I did 'bite the bullet' and did order new lift struts from Unvaire for about $1800 with the 10% discount which should pretty much pay for the trucking. I expected a increase after the first of the year so wanted to get before the price went up.......again!!
Well, back to the shop and clean some more loose paint
.Mike
-
james gevay
- Posts: 380
- Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2007 18:39
- Location: Anoka County MN
- Contact:
Re: Progress/moving along
Looking good Mike!
It's starting to look like a real plane again.
How did that end piece on the leading edge work out? I'd like to see a pic of that, I still don't know how anyone could fit that piece and make it work.
I wish mine were moving forward as well as yours, but mine is in a cold dark hangar right now.
The way this winter is starting out I'll have to battle the ice and flood inside the hangar this spring again.
It's starting to look like a real plane again.
How did that end piece on the leading edge work out? I'd like to see a pic of that, I still don't know how anyone could fit that piece and make it work.
I wish mine were moving forward as well as yours, but mine is in a cold dark hangar right now.
The way this winter is starting out I'll have to battle the ice and flood inside the hangar this spring again.
Re: Progress/moving along
Jim,
I'll see if I can get a picture of the leading edge tip. I assume that's what you're talking about.
After some 'modification' it didn't come out too bad (in my mind).
Mike
I'll see if I can get a picture of the leading edge tip. I assume that's what you're talking about.
After some 'modification'
it didn't come out too bad (in my mind).Mike
Re: Progress/moving along
Mike,
Paint does not like to stick to Aluminum. Is that a new boot cowl? Two ways to help with paint adhesion is one to Scotch Brite the alum. before primer and a conversion coating like Alodine promotes excellent adhesion. Remember to etch before applying the Alodine.
Charles
Paint does not like to stick to Aluminum. Is that a new boot cowl? Two ways to help with paint adhesion is one to Scotch Brite the alum. before primer and a conversion coating like Alodine promotes excellent adhesion. Remember to etch before applying the Alodine.
Charles
Re: Progress/moving along
Charles,
Not a new boot cowl although a new windshield retainer and the rest was stripped to bare metal. Never had a problem before as far as primer ( 2 part) sticking but I'm going to do a better job of metal prep and use my old DP 40 LF primer this time.
Jim,
Here's a couple of photos of the leading edge tip. I just couldn't get the Wag-Aero bend to work so I cut it apart and used the tip only and made the next section inboard from my old leading edge. The WA setup comes with a big flat piece (not formed) that's around .025 if I remember correctly and just too difficult to make the compound bend required or at least that was my experience. The WA kit comes with the tip and first inboard section as one piece but it's a tough bend.
If the WA kit had been made out of something lighter it might have been less of a problem (or if I had a 'english wheel'. If I had it to do over again I think I'd just make my own from the old leading edge and some scrap aluminum. Having never done much metal working it's all on a 'learning curve' for me.
Mike
Not a new boot cowl although a new windshield retainer and the rest was stripped to bare metal. Never had a problem before as far as primer ( 2 part) sticking but I'm going to do a better job of metal prep and use my old DP 40 LF primer this time.
Jim,
Here's a couple of photos of the leading edge tip. I just couldn't get the Wag-Aero bend to work so I cut it apart and used the tip only and made the next section inboard from my old leading edge. The WA setup comes with a big flat piece (not formed) that's around .025 if I remember correctly and just too difficult to make the compound bend required or at least that was my experience. The WA kit comes with the tip and first inboard section as one piece but it's a tough bend.
If the WA kit had been made out of something lighter it might have been less of a problem (or if I had a 'english wheel'. If I had it to do over again I think I'd just make my own from the old leading edge and some scrap aluminum. Having never done much metal working it's all on a 'learning curve' for me.
Mike
-
james gevay
- Posts: 380
- Joined: Fri Mar 09, 2007 18:39
- Location: Anoka County MN
- Contact:
Re: Progress/moving along
Thanks Mike, I was wondering what you did to that last piece to make it fit. Now it looks just like what I had on mine, which I think were original pieces. Mine was .016 but I still think it would be difficult to make that slight bend along that last rib. That last section is so small and relative easy to make that I would recomend to just cut it off and make a new one from scratch, which should be easier to fit.
-
jc pacquin
- Posts: 528
- Joined: Wed Jan 11, 2006 21:12
- Location: baltimore, md.
- Contact:
Re: Progress/moving along
Mike: maybe you could put a picnic table under a tree with a bench or two! That Aeronca is looking like a vision! Press onward! Will it fly in 2010? Its really NICE! Is the Farmall an M or an H. I was allowed to drive an M when I was 12-13 and it was a BIG deal! JP
Re: Progress/moving along
JC,
Doubt it will make the sky in 2010. I work on it almost every day but seems like I don't get much accomplished. My wife says if I gave up my coffee klutch with the other loafers I might get more done. Also, have a fair sized remodeling job coming up at home and expect to spend time visiting the kids in Texas this winter (is that enough excuses??). It probably looks better in pictures than it really is overall, but I'm working with what I have skill and materialwise. Kind of worried about adding too much weight considering Superflite, interior, starter, battery, wing tanks, etc. It should be licensed at 1300# according to the Wagner STC so I'd like to see it come in less than 900# EW but we'll see. I'm going to pull the jugs on the engine later this week and probably send the bottom end out to be done before we head 'south'.
The tractor is a Farmall "H", 1939 model (same as me) I think. It was my father in laws's and he bought it just before WW2. I changed it over to 12 volts and built kind of three point for the snow blade on the back as about the only work it does now is to plow snow.
Anyway, I just keep 'pecking away' at the L16 when I have time.
Mike
Doubt it will make the sky in 2010. I work on it almost every day but seems like I don't get much accomplished. My wife says if I gave up my coffee klutch with the other loafers
I might get more done. Also, have a fair sized remodeling job coming up at home and expect to spend time visiting the kids in Texas this winter (is that enough excuses??). It probably looks better in pictures than it really is overall, but I'm working with what I have skill and materialwise. Kind of worried about adding too much weight considering Superflite, interior, starter, battery, wing tanks, etc. It should be licensed at 1300# according to the Wagner STC so I'd like to see it come in less than 900# EW but we'll see. I'm going to pull the jugs on the engine later this week and probably send the bottom end out to be done before we head 'south'.The tractor is a Farmall "H", 1939 model (same as me) I think. It was my father in laws's and he bought it just before WW2. I changed it over to 12 volts and built kind of three point for the snow blade on the back as about the only work it does now is to plow snow.
Anyway, I just keep 'pecking away' at the L16 when I have time.
Mike
-
jc pacquin
- Posts: 528
- Joined: Wed Jan 11, 2006 21:12
- Location: baltimore, md.
- Contact:
Re: Progress/moving along
there is no doubt about the skill involved. It looks GOOD! I drove a Farmall M. My cousin and I also drove a Minniapolis Moline, (steel wheels) which pulled a Maple sap steel drum (big) on a wooden sled and we stopped at each tree and unloaded the tree buckets into the drum, pulled it back to the sugar shed where it was boiled into syrup. We were about 11-12 years old! Imagine letting kids do that today! (this was in western N.Y. state south of buffalo.) Press onward! JC
Re: Progress/moving along
Well, it was either help my wife take the Christmas stuff down or hide in the shop so I started taking a serious look at the 0200 engine for the L16. I bought the engine from a friend of mine who was in the process of building a 'Wittman Tailwind" but decided he'd probably never get it finished (although he has a lot done) so he decided to sell the engine to me. He bought the engine years ago from a wind damaged Cessna 150 in Texas. According to the logs, it has about 1800 hours TT with about 700 SMOH. Unsure why the engine was taken down at 1100 hours but the pistons were replaced and valves ground so I suspect there were cylinder problems. Everything was magnetically inspected and/or dye checked, etc. I wasn't sure what I'd find once I pulled the jugs but.......................
Here she's down to the short block. The cardboard pieces help protect the block cylinder sealing surfaces from a rod dropping down and hitting it. Darn near impossible to pull the cylinders without the special wrenches and the little LED light lets me look inside the 'private parts'.
Cylinders and pistons removed. I'm going to replace the cylinder kits with either new Continentals or ECI's. I've used Superiors before but they're difficult, if not impossible, to find now.
The cam lobes and lifter bodies look clean with no pitting or spalling as far as I can see. Obviously, the engine has been kept dry and everything is pretty 'oil impregnated' which keeps the rust off. There was some rust in the cylinders but nothing in the bottom end.
Gear train on the rear of the engine. Here again, everthing is basically clean and oiled. If I decided to use the short starter, the shaft needs to be cut off with a die grinder. I can't imagine how that can be accomplished without getting everything in the rear full of grindings...even with 'card board protectors', rags, etc.
At this point, I'm not sure how much further we're going to go with the bottom half. Need to have my IA guy come up and take a look at things. Everything thing in the bottom end looks good but it's been sitting 30 years or so and we haven't looked at bearings yet although they have low hours. I've got a price on doing the bottom end or may leave it or may do with my IA's helpful watch. To be decided.....stay tuned............
.
Mike
Here she's down to the short block. The cardboard pieces help protect the block cylinder sealing surfaces from a rod dropping down and hitting it. Darn near impossible to pull the cylinders without the special wrenches and the little LED light lets me look inside the 'private parts'.
Cylinders and pistons removed. I'm going to replace the cylinder kits with either new Continentals or ECI's. I've used Superiors before but they're difficult, if not impossible, to find now.
The cam lobes and lifter bodies look clean with no pitting or spalling as far as I can see. Obviously, the engine has been kept dry and everything is pretty 'oil impregnated' which keeps the rust off. There was some rust in the cylinders but nothing in the bottom end.
Gear train on the rear of the engine. Here again, everthing is basically clean and oiled. If I decided to use the short starter, the shaft needs to be cut off with a die grinder. I can't imagine how that can be accomplished without getting everything in the rear full of grindings...even with 'card board protectors', rags, etc.
At this point, I'm not sure how much further we're going to go with the bottom half. Need to have my IA guy come up and take a look at things. Everything thing in the bottom end looks good but it's been sitting 30 years or so and we haven't looked at bearings yet although they have low hours. I've got a price on doing the bottom end or may leave it or may do with my IA's helpful watch. To be decided.....stay tuned............
.Mike