T-Hangers

[Paul Courchesne]

Does anyone have any creative idea to build a T-Hanger.

Thanks
Paul

[Paul Courchesne]

Wow I guess every one stores them out side.
bye.

[joea]

I rent my hangar.

Have absolutely no idea how to build one.

[MikeB]

Paul,
What do you need to know? I built a couple of hangars. Not the "T" hangar type. My last is a 32 X40 pole type. I'd probably build a 40 x 40 if I had it to do over again. I have some ideas on doors as I built my own.

Mike

[Roger Anderson]

Rent. Do like my electric bi fold door. Bet that adds a bunch to costs.

[jepropst]

I've built two hangars in the last 5 years. The first was a 50 X 52 with 16 ft eaves, concrete floor, and a 40 ft. electric bifold door. We are building a 12 ft deep apartment in the back of this hangar. I also built a 50 X 40 metal covered pole barn hangar with 11 ft eaves, 4 on 12 truss roof, a crushed rock floor and four section 40' sliding door. Probably the starting point on defining your needs is to think about the door. For Champs and Chiefs you probably should consider at least a 40 ft wide door. Anything less and you have to be concerned about dragging a wing tip when parking the plane. For my pole barn I added 5 feet on each end of the door to provide some wind bracing to keep the front from racking. On my first hangar I designed 16 ft eaves primarily because that was what several other people at our airport were doing. In hind sight unless you have something tall such as a trailer or RV, you may not need a hangar door with more than 10 ft vertical clearance when open. In our area, as a minimum, you need to insluate the ceiling to eliminate condensation problems with metal roofs. On my first hangar I have 4" vinyl faced fiberglass insluation on all sides, the door, and the roof. On the pole barn hangar I only have bubble foil insulation on the roof and no insulation on the walls. As you might expect the fully insulated hangar is much cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter than the unsulated pole barn hangar. Beyond the door sizing the the height of the buidling eaves, your budget is the key factor in defining the scope of the design.

[jc pacquin]

I would not build a T Hangar. They are counter-productive. You need the extra room of a square for....Your STUFF! (George Carlin) Barn construction is simple and effective. Post and beam. Find some amish around you. They will have it up and done while your still stumbling around Home Depot. JP (50X50 seems right.) And.....if your area is secure, you really don't need a door till later, just a good overhang. Just face it away from the north winds.

[Paul Courchesne]

thanks guys , I already have a 40x40 garage that I do all my work in although I can't bring the plane it.
I would like to build a simple T-hanger just to get the plane out of the elements. The storms we seem to be faceing now seems to have many days where we have hail warning. I just rebuild my wings new because of hail damage and don't want to go through tha again. Your whole winter is shot- i.e no ice fishing.
I was just wondering the type of brace I would use for A 40 FOOTwing span and the slope of the roof?
The tail secton is the easy part.

[flyingfool]

If you build a true "T" hangar that is literally shaped in a "T". I think you will regret it.

I think you'd be far better to build a square building minimum of 40'x40'. And I would recommend at least 42' for width so you can get a clear 40' wide door.

If you are budget limited. Leave the floor in gravel and do not buy the door. Save up money for the concrete and door for later.

Window's or skylights. I'd recommend NOT doing skylights. They will leak. It is not a question of if but WHEN. They are a pain. As far as windows. I'd recommend putting them up just below the eves. This allows for a ton of light to enter and not need a lot of supplemental electrical lights during the day. Also high enough that people can not see through and see what you've got inside.

A square building will give you much more storage and space for your other "stuff" and also be a better investment over the long haul. Also with the odd shape of a true stand alone "T" hangar there is more messing around with building 7 walls instead of 4 that you may not save much anyhow and the land lease would be no different.

Trust me. Once you have a 40x40' hangar you wish you had a 50x50 as "stuff" seems to multiply like rabbits.

If you live in the northern climates, You will want a south facing door. You will get some sun on the plane in the summer. but snow removal will be easier and the sun will melt/dry/evaporate the snow/ice and keep door from freezing down. Also at least where I live the winter storms and snow blows from the North and NW. So this without a door limits snow problems into the hangar.

Final piece of advice. Do NOT put the hangar low. If anything bring in some fill or gravel or whatever to make your hangar as high or higher than everyone else's hangar. you do NOT want a water issue. Ice or water coming in the door. Turf has a way of getting higher and higher over time and then the floor that was once level is now 2 inches below the grass and you have rain water and ice coming in your hangar. Make sure is is like 6 inches higher than the surrounding area. You can almost not screw up too much by being high if you can push your plane up the slope and into the hangar or are not screwing up the drainage for other hangar owners nearby.

Just my opinion(s).

[Dennis]

Flyingfool,

I agree with everything you said. I started with a 50x50 and have already added on to it. I would like to add that when I dedided to add on, no company wanted to do the engineering to add to the existing building. They all insisted that I buy a stand alone building and build it adjacent to the existing building. I added about 30% to the existing building but it cost me over half of what the original building cost. I am sure some of that was due to inflation but not all of it. So, if you got the bucks, what ever you think you need, add 1/3 to it. I went from 2500 sq ft to 3250 sq ft. For now, it is just right.

One more thought, if you have a drive entrance from the back or side of the building, you might want to add a garage door.

Dennis

[shorty]

As to a "T" hanger I agree with everyone else here Lot's of wasted room for the same cost as square.
You might look into adding 40 or 50 feet to your existing building.
but it you want free standing, I'd go with a Pole barn, about 40x60 or so, they are inexpensive to build, and will get your airplane out of the worst of the elements.
Then you can close in the sides a little along. It won't hit your pocket as hard all at once.
Now as to actual size, I know of someone who built a 50x100, and thought that he'd never run outta room. You can't walk for all the stuff in there.

[Red(neck) Barron]

I just got a rough quote about a month ago from the contractor who had previously built a pole shed for me. For a 40' x 40' he guessed about $20k plus the door. I suppose those might be ~$5k. That doesn't include any wiring or plumbing you might need. Square buildings are easier and cheaper than 'T' designs. Every corner adds cost. That $20k included a 4" thick concrete floor. Unless you are good at building things, let someone with the skills, tools and experience do it an pay them for those things. Saves time and potential injuries.

[Nathan K. Hammond]

I agree with everyone else; T's aren't a good use of space or money. I've seen a simple slant roof cattle shed turned into an effective hangar. It had a simple latter truss across the front opening and 2x6's for the girders and telephone poles for the uprights. Sounds like you already have a good shop, so no need for a finished floor; dirt or crush-n-run can save money.

Think this shape.....



With a 2 foot latter truss across the opening...


nkh