Anyone use the Stewart System and whats results?

[Muskokabob]

I recovered the tail feathers on my Sedan last winter (2009) in the basement of my home! that includes the application of the brush coat of the UV system. All this without 1 complaint from my wife. There is absolutely no smell!!! The spray coats went very well and I found to be relatively easy, but you must follow directions. When doing the cowl, I did not wait the 24 hours to dry after washing with water, this caused pin holes and I had to redo.
I would definately use this system again and the finish coat (3) looks great . By the way, the spray coat was done in my garage under a 10" x 10" plastic tent, I wore a tyvac suit and a respirator mask.
When I had a problem, I telephoned and got instant response from the top guy, outstanding!

Muskokabob

[Marian]

Excellent. Thank you. We have to match Randolph colours with theirs. Any pitfalls we should be aware of?
We're looking forward to getting away from MEK for the 'Superseam' and the stinky, but very effective doping process.

Marian

[Nathan K. Hammond]

Follow the directions to the "T". It doesn't act or spray like any other system.
Some people are having problems with bubbling when the paint gets wet; http://www.supercub.org/forum/showthrea ... stem-Paint

Also, if you use the 2-part EkoPoly, you still need a fresh air breather because of the Isocyanate.
Here's the MSDS... http://www.westav.ca/pdf/EkoPoly%20Part ... 202010.pdf

nkh

[Marian]

You have been most helpful so far. We'll keep doing our homework.

Marian

[Jerry Jackson]

Nathan

Thanks for posting the SuperCub link. That is a great discussion.

Jerry Jackson
San Antonio

[GWestphal]

Using the Stewart System on my Champ and about ready to spray the Eko-fill coats when the weather warms up. Saturday, I was in Sioux City, Ia helping a friend bring a homebuilt back to Rochester and we visited with a mechanic who is covering an Ercoupe using the Stewart process. When he sprayed the silver EkoPoly top color coats he found the next day raised pin points and small cracks in the finish. After a conversation with the Stewarts he learned that by mixing acording to volume he had added to much distilled water to get the correct viscosity. They now do not recommend using the volume method but want you to switch to mixing by weight. (The manual shows both methods but disregard the volume method). He was able to sand out most of the defects but it added more time to the project than the customer wanted to have invested. So I will now need to purchase or borrow a digital gram scale when mixing the final coats. If someone hasn't started the final coat application they may want to have a phone conversation with one of the Stewart family. The mechanic was happy with the response he got from them to resolve the problem. Gordy in Minnesota

[jimknuck]

I have used both Stitts and Stewart, the Stitts is quicker in my opinion. I used the Stewart on an experimental and if you make a mistake on gluing it, it is much easier to fix, however, if you do not get all of the excess glue off it looks bad. Stits can be removed with MEK, I have not found a good way to remove excess stewart glue. I am using Stewart becauseI have School kids helping (low toxicity). I think the cost is about the same, if it holds up (as it seems to be doing from what I have read), I would go with the stewart system, There is another great advantage to the stewart glue, it will not remove any type of paint. If you have never used Stewart I would suggest spending 49 dollars on a quart of glue and trying it out with some scrap fabric to see how you like it Good Luck

[Jerry Jackson]

You have just one chance to remove the glue---before it dries. You really have to pay strict attention to this. It is preferable to have a second person that can help with this task. One person can do it but it is much harder that way.