Finish Systems

[Muskokabob]

Has anyone tried the "Stewart Aircraft Finishing System"? Longevity? ease of application? Cost? Finish appearance.
I have used the Randolph system and find it very good, but takes lots of time/labor. How would you compare to Randolph?

[Paul Agaliotis]

Bob,
I have been watching the Stewart system for a few years now. I plan on switching to their system as soon as my Randolph supplies are exhausted.
I think attending their seminar would be required.
The cost of material is about the same but none of the shipping is Haz-Mat so costs are less there. The finish is polyurethane so it will look good for years and should wear like a hogs nose.
If you are interested order the CD. The application is quite different than a dope finish.
I like to try the different products out there before commenting on them. I used the Ceconite 7600 process with good results. The UV coat had some issues and the paint was unsuitable for my talents. But the system was a good attempt at a nontoxic system. I have not covered an aircraft with Stewart system so this is only one mans opinion. I see promise with the system as the toxic products are being discontinued.
The Stewart system has combined the best of the nontoxic systems with the latest science to produce a quality product.
Paul

[MikeB]

I'm using Superflite system 6 to cover my L16. If I hadn't already had some of the products left over from another job I would seriously looked at using the Stewart system. I spent a long time talking to them at Oshkosh this year and they seem to have a good system and will probably be ahead of the game when the petroleum based products either get too expensive or mandated out by the EPA in a few years. As far as application it appears close to the Superflite system with a UV based primer system consisting of cross coats and sanding and the polyurethane finish coats. However, the best part is that it's non-toxic as Paul mentioned so no need for a fresh air supply like the Superflite and Aerothane paints. They also claim the paint won't crack in cold weather like other polyurethane systems.

If doing another job, I'd seriously look at it (but I told my wife this would be my last one ).

Mike Berg

[Carl Prather]

Moskokabob,

Paul Agaliotis and I cut out a few 12" by 12" panels from various aircraft and got these results:

ACA 8KCAB 2.08 oz Superflite/Superflite derivative factory cover
L-2 1.10 Stits Polytone/Ceconite
1965 7ECA 1.06 Butyrate/Ceconite, factory cover
Rearwin 7000 .96 Cotton in silver

I like to look of ACA's finishes but based on the samples that were cut out, their finishes seem to weigh 30 lbs more than Ceconite finishes.

[Holcombe]

Ease of repair down the road should be a strong factor. My Champ has Air-tech and while I have used the paints a bit with improving results, I have not had to do an actual fabric repair.
I have a lift strut fitting I would like to remove, inspect, repaint and re-install. This will involve fabric work which would be quite easy with Stitts system and a mat finish final coat.
I'll know a lot more when I'm done with this.

[Lostdutchman]

If you are looking for an easy repair I feel stits/polyfiber is the way to go. A little mek and you are on you way. (kind of) The major downside to the stits is the mek base for everything. If you are doing your project in your basement probably not the best choice. A friend of mine scratch built a supercub and is in the process of covering using the stewarts system. He likes the lack of really harsh chemicals but found the application process very difficult to perform well. Ive never tried it so I cant personally comment on it. I did a spar replacement/ wing recover last year with the airtech system. I thought it was pretty straight forward. Still fairly chemical intensive though. I havent done a repair with it. I wouldnt think it would be too hard. Just my $.02.

[Holcombe]

Before I do anything I'll call Airtech. They have been right there on the phone to help when I've called about the paints. I think what I'll need is additional inspection rings and covers to get at the lift strut fitting and a larger hole to get the fitting out. I'll talk with others who have done this before I start. Getting the hard glossy paint touched up afterwards is going to be an issue. No MEK is a nice feature of the system for sure, and the solvents aren't too bad. Just need a mask with a charcoal filter, and the overspray cleans off my glasses with acetone.
I have worked with Stits and really like the fact that you can rub right down to the fabric, easily prepare for a patch, and new mat finish Politone paint blends right in.
Starting over I would never weigh my plane down with a high gloss finish, nice as it is to look at.

[bob turner]

I have used Stits and Ceconite, and have a little experience with Stewarts.

You will get a satisfactory job using Ceconite/nitrate/butyrate. It can be wet-sanded and polished like hand-rubbed lacquer, if you want. The key is that first coat of nitrate - do not be tempted to spray it on; use a brush. For beginners, this system is probably best.

Stits is basically fire resistant, and a bit more expensive. At least one of my friends had an allergic reaction to the Poly Brush. It never bothered me.

Stewarts shows promise - the glue seems twice as strong as super seam cement, which means it is at least twice as strong as it needs to be. But it is like contact cement, so you do not have to hold it while it dries. The Ekofill is pleasant to brush on, and sands quite well.

I have not sprayed Stewarts - my personality is not oriented toward following directions, and as I understand it, unless you follow directions exactly you are doomed. But for small repairs (minor alterations?) I have found that dope sticks to the Ekofill, and I can match the surrounding paint, sand smooth, and compound. In one case where very small spots were repaired, Krylon did the color part, and it lasted for a long time outside in the weather.

That other system mentioned above - my friend's yellow Cub was a prize winner, yet within a year, it looked like black mold had attacked open fabric bays. Always hangared, and really carefully built and painted.

I do not, and will not, spray catalyzed urethanes. Closest I will come is acrylic enamel, now an endangered species and nowhere near as good as it was in 1970.

All opinion.

[MikeB]

Gordy from Minnesota has been covering a Champ using the Stewart systems so he might chime in here. Also, they just hauled a Stinson 108 out of our airport for recovery and they intended to use Stewart. The wings on my Champ were covered with 7700 ceconite back in the mid-90's and they still Maule test in the green for whatever it's worth although it's never been stored outside either.

Now that I'm smarter in my old age, I'd avoid anything that's MEK based.

MikeB

[GWestphal]

I have all the fabric covered pieces finished with Stewart System materials completed through the final Eko Poly coats. I had trouble getting the material to flow and have a finish with some orange peel look. Its hard to sand and not go through the edge of the tapes so I finally decided that it will have to do. If you're happy with some other finish stay where you are at. If you want to learn a new one and don't mind the learning curve the Stewart System is fine but you must follow their directions completely. I was mixing 480 to 520 grams of base paint with appropriate amount of catalyst and water to it and just about filled a 40 oz mixing cup each time and I needed to mix this amount 3 times while painting the champ wings top and bottom. They want you painting the next coat 10 minutes or less after you begin painting that first coat so coat 4 should be going on 35 minutes after you start the first one. Unless you have someone helping you mixing paint the average painter can't be ready for another coat in 10 minutes by the time you hit the correct gram amount of catalyst and distilled water to the base paint. Some of the small pieces the paint would flow out as I wasn't over the 10 minutes between coats time limit. They are great people to work with and will answer any questions you might have to help you resolve any problems you may be having. One thing is order the amount of material as you need it as they ship their paint supplies that same afternoon so you are always opening fresh cans. Know their DVD's completely and get their new one on painting a Cessna wing and fuselage for painting and sanding tips. Gordy in Minnesota