I used a Maule pneumatic on my Stinson 108-3 for 18 years with no problems except when my tailwheel spring began to sag. This is probably the biggest problem with any tailwheel.
The tail on a Stinson is VERY heavy compared to any Aeronca. It originally had a solid rubber tailwheel which it totally destroyed because of the weight.
When the spring sags the tailwheel cannot swivel properly and it also causes shimmyand other problems. The spring sags so gradually that most people don't notice it. Look in the aircraft maint manual and check the spring arch.
Tailwheels
- Jody Wittmeyer
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Captgrumps
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- Jody Wittmeyer
- Posts: 591
- Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2004 13:47
- Location: Kewanee, IL. (EZI)
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I had Goodyears for quite a few years. They worked fine and I liked them, you just have to keep the clips on the discs. There is a mod to do this by drilling holes in the wheel and inserting buttons through the clips and wheels.
I converted to Clevelands because I got tired of the outrageous prices for Goodyear parts, especially the clips. I think the last time I went to order any they were $47 ea, that's when I went to Clevelands. The wheel halves are even worse.
It is my firm belief that Goodyear wanted everyone to convert so they didn't have to provide parts. These clips are simple flat springs, you can hold 30 of them in your hand.
There is no way I could have gotten my passenger to get out and push the tail. She is the boss!! The 270 turn worked just fine because it allowed me to get some momentum with that heavy tail to swing it around. I had a few questions from tower controllers though.
I once taxied behind a 727 in Missoula, MT just as he spooled up. The Stinson snapped around 90* in less than the blink of an eye but otherwise it was uneventful. The tower had cleared me to taxi behind him but the pilot failed to get the word!
I converted to Clevelands because I got tired of the outrageous prices for Goodyear parts, especially the clips. I think the last time I went to order any they were $47 ea, that's when I went to Clevelands. The wheel halves are even worse.
It is my firm belief that Goodyear wanted everyone to convert so they didn't have to provide parts. These clips are simple flat springs, you can hold 30 of them in your hand.
There is no way I could have gotten my passenger to get out and push the tail. She is the boss!! The 270 turn worked just fine because it allowed me to get some momentum with that heavy tail to swing it around. I had a few questions from tower controllers though.
I once taxied behind a 727 in Missoula, MT just as he spooled up. The Stinson snapped around 90* in less than the blink of an eye but otherwise it was uneventful. The tower had cleared me to taxi behind him but the pilot failed to get the word!
Gus Causbie
Ash Flat, AR
N83564, 7AC-2235, A65-8
Ash Flat, AR
N83564, 7AC-2235, A65-8
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Mike
Scott 2000 Tail Wheel
Hello folks,
Need some help on some information concerning a Scott 2000 installed on a post war Chief. I was asked to provide a check-out and flight review for a gent who has recently purchased a rather nice looking Chief. During preflight of the aircraft we discovered that the Scott 2000 tail wheel is very difficult to unlock so as to enable the aircraft to make tighter turns on the ground. We even tried to taxi to see if the unit would allow a tight 90 degree turn, but was unable to get the wheel to break past approx 30 degrees.
Questions -
1. I know that this tail wheel should be able to unlock and swivel, is there an adjustment that can be made to allow for this?
2. Although not about the tail wheel, the brakes on this aircraft are the drum/shoe type. If memory serves me correctly, adjustment is made by tightening the cable, is this correct?
3. The brake pedals in this Chief are toe activated, and look like another pedal attached on top of the original type pedals that I've seen in the Aeronca type aircraft. The last Chief that I flew had smaller type brake pedals located in the middle of the pedal that one activated by moving their foot down. Are the toe type units add on's or original type units?
Thanks
Mike
Need some help on some information concerning a Scott 2000 installed on a post war Chief. I was asked to provide a check-out and flight review for a gent who has recently purchased a rather nice looking Chief. During preflight of the aircraft we discovered that the Scott 2000 tail wheel is very difficult to unlock so as to enable the aircraft to make tighter turns on the ground. We even tried to taxi to see if the unit would allow a tight 90 degree turn, but was unable to get the wheel to break past approx 30 degrees.
Questions -
1. I know that this tail wheel should be able to unlock and swivel, is there an adjustment that can be made to allow for this?
2. Although not about the tail wheel, the brakes on this aircraft are the drum/shoe type. If memory serves me correctly, adjustment is made by tightening the cable, is this correct?
3. The brake pedals in this Chief are toe activated, and look like another pedal attached on top of the original type pedals that I've seen in the Aeronca type aircraft. The last Chief that I flew had smaller type brake pedals located in the middle of the pedal that one activated by moving their foot down. Are the toe type units add on's or original type units?
Thanks
Mike
brakes
the 11cc had toe brakes. all others had heal type unless "field modified" . there is an stc to put toe brakes on the chief but they are hydraulic disc. buz wagnere has the paper work but it's an expensice and difficult mod unless it's done before the fuselage is covered. scott is still in business. go to www.scottaviation.com, get the phone # and call for product support. they are in new york. bernie
- Nathan K. Hammond
- Posts: 2371
- Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2004 00:22
- Location: Danville, KY (DVK)
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Hi Mike,
Consider yourself lucky with that tailwheel. I have just the opposite problem, mine won't stay latched. As far as adjustment, there really isn't one. Make sure your rudder springs aren't too tight, since they are what hold the tailwheel locked. Maybe sqeeze a little grease in it.
Here's a quick idea how it locks:
The locking mechanizims are the stearing arms that the spings attach too. (Make the "hang-ten" sign with you hands, and make your thumb tips touch. Think of your pinkies as the rudder springs, your thumbs as the tailwheel arms, and your index knuckles as the locking dogs. Now rotate your hands around the point your thumbs touch)
As the springs pull the arms foward, the locking dogs are pulled tight against the notched casting that swivels, effectivly locking the tailwheel.
As far as the brakes, if they are infact mechanical drums, then you are correct.
nkh
Consider yourself lucky with that tailwheel. I have just the opposite problem, mine won't stay latched. As far as adjustment, there really isn't one. Make sure your rudder springs aren't too tight, since they are what hold the tailwheel locked. Maybe sqeeze a little grease in it.
Here's a quick idea how it locks:
The locking mechanizims are the stearing arms that the spings attach too. (Make the "hang-ten" sign with you hands, and make your thumb tips touch. Think of your pinkies as the rudder springs, your thumbs as the tailwheel arms, and your index knuckles as the locking dogs. Now rotate your hands around the point your thumbs touch)
As the springs pull the arms foward, the locking dogs are pulled tight against the notched casting that swivels, effectivly locking the tailwheel.
As far as the brakes, if they are infact mechanical drums, then you are correct.
nkh
7AC-5691
Super 85-12F @ DVK
Super 85-12F @ DVK