Oil Temp
For those of us with no decent shop to produce our own parts here's what you can buy to cover the oval opening below the prop on a champ.
It's listed as Part 2-862, Winterfront Nose Bowl Opening in the manual and is available from Univair using the same Part number but they call it the Champion Plate. It cost $43.68 and has 4 spring clip retainers much like those found on inspection plates.
It's plain aluminum and can be painted of course.
Here in the cold climate of South Florida I gained over 30 degrees bringing me up to 175 when the OAT was in the 50s during a cold front.
It's listed as Part 2-862, Winterfront Nose Bowl Opening in the manual and is available from Univair using the same Part number but they call it the Champion Plate. It cost $43.68 and has 4 spring clip retainers much like those found on inspection plates.
It's plain aluminum and can be painted of course.
Here in the cold climate of South Florida I gained over 30 degrees bringing me up to 175 when the OAT was in the 50s during a cold front.
Ed Clark
'46' Champ 7ac
N84961
'46' Champ 7ac
N84961
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aeroncafan
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Mine looks like it was an owner produced part, very well made though. Looks like he used some very thin foam weatherstripping around the backside edge to better seal it against the nose bowl. I was only getting about 10 degrees warm up, but Nathan's duct tape solution on the inner section of the main cowl openings did the trick! I flew down to Peachstate last weekend with the chin plug in and 2 strips of standard duct tape on the inner opening of each side (cylinder heads still exposed). OAT on the ground was high 30's and ran 190 degree oil temp, which is my normal warm weather temp. Oh, and after my last cold weather flight where I couldn't hardly turn the prop, I changed out the oil to some multi-visc...sure made hand propping a bit easier!
Donald
I got the UNIVAR part, then built my own which fit better and is more secure. Way too close to the prop for a mishap.
A sock in the hole would work just as well and be safer.
I get about 15 degrees rise. It helps and is enough for around my parts where afternoon temps could warm up on the way home.
A sock in the hole would work just as well and be safer.
I get about 15 degrees rise. It helps and is enough for around my parts where afternoon temps could warm up on the way home.
Tail winds are a "Good Thing"
Oil Temp
In response to David Johnson's earlier question... I use a cowl plug made of soft foam stuffed in a heavy duty plastic bag. Stays in the hole just fine...doesn't get hot enough to cause any problems.
I usually find it necessary to close off part of the bottom cowl outlet as well but even then the temps aren't as high as I would like. I suspect the best solution would be some kind of cover over the bug-eye inlets.
Tim
I usually find it necessary to close off part of the bottom cowl outlet as well but even then the temps aren't as high as I would like. I suspect the best solution would be some kind of cover over the bug-eye inlets.
Tim
Hi Tim closing off about a 3rd of the inner bug-eyes really helps increace the oil temps on my plane. On my installation that where the air enters the under the crankcase baffle and then down on the oil tank, as its a Wagner STC install using C-150 baffling.
GB MN.Flyer
Flying a Champ 7DC and a HKS Kitfox III
Flying a Champ 7DC and a HKS Kitfox III
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aeroncafan
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Sorry, the front...what the previous post referred to as the "bug eyes". Nathan's post with my chin cover in it has a photo of a red and white Champ on skis that has some sort of plates where I put my tape.gusc wrote:Donald,
Where is "the inner section of the main cowl openings"?
Do you mean at the rear of the cowling or at the front?
Donald
Bug-eye clovers
Hi Gus, close off the inner part of the bug-eye, doing the outer part one could easily over heat the cylinder heads , with the inner part the cranckcase gets warmer top & bottom.
GB MN.Flyer
Flying a Champ 7DC and a HKS Kitfox III
Flying a Champ 7DC and a HKS Kitfox III
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aeroncafan
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