National Aeronca Association Bulletin Board

I changed out the monster 800x6x6s for 600x6x4s and found a few interesting things.

The right axle has a 1-5/8" spacer inside next to the axle base? I don't remember seeing one on the left side but I changed that tire pretty fast and may have missed it, it was a little dark where I was working. The axle is 8" long, does this seem to be the correct length?

I have Cleveland hyd dixc brakes so maybe that is the reson for the spacers.

I also noticed that the wheel through bolts were reversed (Nuts on the outside) from all the parts pictures. I don't see what difference it makes but maybe it does. After stripping one nut I gave up on the wheel 90 in-lbs torque routine. I think it stripped because I had used a thin washer by accident. Now I just tightened it until I can feel it reach the end of the threads and quit and I'm very carefuil to use the correct washers. These bolts appear to be fitted to the very exact length to prevent damage to the Al wheels?

I finally received my 7AC Maint Manual and found that the correct tire pressure is stated as 13-15 psi, of course that is for 600s so I still don't know the correct pressure for the 800s but that is academic now. I'm giving them to a friend for his Piper Pawnee.

gusc: I have hydraulics also and don't remember seeing any spacers. Should explain itself if you don't have enough thread for the axel nut or the caliper won't line up to the disc. The nuts on the outside is correct. It is also retarded as the bolt will work into the brake area if a nut fails or bolt breaks. Just redid my wheels last winter and noticed the bolt length you mentioned. Add washers so the nut can be torqued to the recomended value without running the thread over the shank of the bolt. The recommended torque on an AN-4 is about 70 inch lbs. but I've seen some installations use 100 without stripping. The wheel halves should be tight against each other or you will have problems later. Where the bolt goes through the wheel, it's quite massive for material, so I don't think you can hurt it much.
Ron

Ron,

Can't figure out why all the drawings show the bolt heads on the brake side as I can see your point about a broken bolt. Of course it depends on where the tolt breaks also.

I found that my left shock fill plug is smooth right down to the shock, don't know how I can ever fill it or how anybody else ever did. The book says this is a brass plug so assume it is a NPT. I also guess that it is steel and not brass and rusted in place. That will be a lot of fun drilling out!

It's interesting to me that the plugs are on the bottom and not the top of the shock. I assume theshocks arerotated to fill but why not on the top in the first place?

Gus,
The fill plug is a brass pipe plug that has a slot for a blade screwdriver.
After you fill the oleo you can position the fill port to either side, Ive seen them both ways.
Paul

Ron /Gus
What does your torque plates look like for the cleveland calipers?
Wondering how it bolts up to the axle?
Jim

I have Clevelands & disc brakes on my EC. It, too, has a spacer 'sleeve' on the axle, inside the wheel. I presume it has to do with the room that used to be occupied by the brake drum but am not sure. I didn't see the original set up with drum brakes.

My wheels go together nicely, with the usual number of threads protruding behind the nuts.

Jon B.

gusc: It's like Paul said, and if using the original low profile plugs it will work both ways. Best is up because it sets up to fill when you lift the oleo up. When they are down you have to rotate to fill anyway. Clean the threads with a Q tip and lacquer thinner then use a small amount of thread sealant when replacing the plug. When I rebuilt my oleos I changed the plugs to AN 1/8 aluminum which is great for servicing but could not put them up due to caliper interferance.
Ron

If anyone needs the original style plugs, I think I still have a few of them left.
Paul

7ECjim: There is a disc welded on the axel with I believe six holes in it. The caliper plate has six also. It slides over the axle and is bolted vertically with four bolts.
Ron

Jim,

My torque plate has eight holes, my Cleveland caliper uses four of those holes. I rotated my RH caliper one hole CCW (Toward the rear of the airplane) because the inside brake lining couldn't be removed without removing the caliper bolts. I'll do the LH side next time I'm working there. I need to change that brake disc anyway because it is pretty badly grooved even though it is almost new.

Ron,

My experience with Al and steel has been corroded and siezed Al. Brass has never done this on any of my stuff.

My RH oleo is new and has a square headed plug pointing down. Didn't check to see what metal it is but my guess is steel. The LH plug could have the slot full of paint, I never guessed that it would have a slot head. Pretty easy to strip out of brass I would think.

Paul,

I would like to have two of those plugs. How do we get together on them?

Jon,

My other side must have the spacer also, I just didn't notice it because it looks just like the axle and it was a bit dark where I was working.

Gus,
Give me a day or two to gather them up. You can send me a PM with your address.
Paul

Paul,

Thanks