National Aeronca Association Bulletin Board

Ok, hang with me for a minute. I was flipping through the phone book the other day, and I happen to come across an add for "seamless gutters." While looking at this add, it show's the guy's van that holds the equipment that forms the gutters and thats when it hits me! With a set of rollers you could make 1 piece leading edges!!!! Heck, a gutter guy might even have the ability to do it already.

I'm not trying to re-invent the wheel, but trying to figure out an easy way to get a set of skins that fit and have as few seams as possible.

What's the thought, crazy idea or a possibility?

nkh

I don,t think it,s out of the question but finding the sheet aluminum in the proper width might be tough. The finished piece would need to be very straight as any twist in it would also effect the wing.
I made a small press break to form the leading edge in 48" sections. Once pulled into position and secured I install a light felt/cheese cloth covering prior to covering. This results in a nice looking leading edge.
Paul

Nathan,

Give it a try and you just might be on something new!

Joe

Wag Aero had a 2 piece leading edge kit, but you needed to buy the tip piece separate. This was .020 tempered and came bent enough that you had to spread it apart a bit to get it over the nose of the ribs.
much better than the 3 or 4 piece set I got from safe air that I had to use the ratchet straps on.

Forgot, Nathan, the standard width of the AL. is 48, but if you cut it legth wise, you could cut it as long as you want. Probably more waste, though.

Paul, you used a light cheese cloth to cover the leading edge before covering it? I think I like that approach for a smooth finish. Can you give a little more detail on where you got the cloth, its size or thickness and maybe who makes the stuff (Wally world maybe)? Did you use regular fabric glue to hold it on?

BTW, I put my uncovered wings on the fuselage two days ago to check for fit, proper distances from strut to fuselage, preliminary rigging and proper placement of new fuel lines to the wing tanks. Everything looked good but I noticed something of interest. I would have never spotted it with the wings covered. The pair of drag wires which extend through the rear spar come extremely close to the front aileron cable. I will need to trim them to get better clearance. I don't think it would be wise to re-adjust the drag wires at the point of the game. So, just for information to anyone building a set of wings, when installing the first set of drag wires nearest the wing root, make sure excess drag wire past the double nuts is at a minimum on the back side of the rear spar.

And Paul, I recall that you have installed a set of the Wag wing tanks. It looks like it will be a "bear" to attach the fuel line at the wing tank after the wing is on. I am thinking about using a foot or two of fuel line along the wing root so that I can attach the fuel line to the tank prior to attaching the wing. What are your thoughts.

Dennis

Paul, how did you make your press?

Jody, thanks for the elvauation on the Wag leading edges, I've been wondering about them. Was it worth buying them, instead of bending your own?

In the Spruce catalog, they have rolls of aluminum 2 feet wide by 20 feet long, that are rolled up. So metal wouldn't be a problem, but getting a gutter guy to let me play with the equipment may.

nkh

Would have rather made my own, but learned something. Bought kit from S/A for right wing and installed. It was a bear. Even the .020 dented easy. A week later, S/A sold out. Had to buy Wag's 2 piece kit. That's when I found out how much better the tempered skins were. As I said, they were bent enough that I had to force them open a bit to get them on the ribs. They stayed in place. Had I had the time and tools, I would have made them myself. Next rebuild, my champ, I probably will. It was worth it, to me at the time to buy them.

Thanks Jody.

nkh

Dennis,
The product I use is called Pellon. It,s a 100% dacron felt material about 1/32" thick. Any good fabric store should have it. To attach it I use nitrate dope. It will absorb some dope when you cover so I use additional dope on this area.
The tanks are not a problem to secure the lines after installation. I,ve used two different methods. The first using the supplied AN fittings and flared ends. And the second using a Citabria barbed fitting from a late model. This style uses a short length of rubber hose to connect the line to the fitting and is secured with hose clamps. I dont see a disadvantage with either style. Make sure the tank is positioned to keep the fitting as close to the center of the wing/fuselage gap as possible with any fitting combo you choose.

Nathan,
I made my press brake out of 2x6,s with a "U" shaped end pieces. The ram is a thick wall pipe. The hardest part is keeping the material straight when forming. I use 2024T3 for the leading edge .020 thick. Some of the Champs I,ve worked on had .016. This is a bit tougher to work with because it tends to bend when removing from the brake. I have used a thick as .032 but would not do that again. I am planning to use .012 on a Pre-War Chief project but I,m not sure it will be strong enough. I,ll let you know how it works.
Paul

Paul,

I checked at the store and they said there were a number of Pellon products. Several of the products were synthetic but not specifically dacron. Do you have a product number on the package or a more descriptive name for the stuff?

I removed the wings today. Need to make a few minor adjustments and they are ready to cover.

Thanks, Dennis

Dennis,
I dont have a specific number for the material. Its a thin synthetic felt material, the color is white. Stay away from the organic materials. The cotton cheese cloth will rot under the dacron fabrics and hold water,causing the leading edge skins to corrode.
Paul

Paul,

Thanks for the help. The "stuff" I bought is made by Pellon and resembles felt. It is white, 100% polyester and is about 1/32 thick but it will compact to about .020. It is the same material on both sides without a backing. Pellon calls the material "Thermolamp Plus" and the part number is TP970. I hope it is the right stuff as you described.

Dennis

That sounds like the same stuff Dennis. Good luck.
Paul