crancase breather mod

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crancase breather mod

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harry fenton talks of bill panckaes breather mod, does anyone know what he does? doug
Ron Babos
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Post by Ron Babos »

A length of tubing is silver soldered or brazed to the elbow of the breather. Roughly 2.5-3" long. The idea is to not allow as much oil to escape through the breather tube as the route is less direct. I have done it , but not sure it was worth the work, as vapour is alway present and it will condense in the breather pipe and will still puke. If it is excessive puking, the blow-by in the engine is also excessive.
Ron
Before you believe anything I say, check with two more people. If they agree, I must be right.
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Mikek
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Re: crancase breather mod

Post by Mikek »

Anonymous wrote:harry fenton talks of bill panckaes breather mod, does anyone know what he does? doug
Not sure who to give the credit to but sure it's from the f-AA forum!!
Not the one you asked about but looks like it would help.

Also have the Cub fix but would need your email to send it.

Mike Kne

1. Take off your present 5/8 tubing vent &...
a. Save about 9 1/2" for the horizontal run.
b. Rotate the AN 842 hose elbow CCW about 110 deg This will angle the 5/8 tube upward about 15 deg with tail wheel on the ground & 30 deg when flying.
2. Get (1) AN833-10D flared tube bulkhead fitting with (1) AN924 -10D locknut,
(2) AN818-10D coupling nut, (2) AN919-10D sleeve coupling.
Cut the appropriate size in the rear baffle as close to the top seal where it will clear it. Install the fitting with the nut & align with the short leg down.
3. Take about 9 1/2" of salvaged & flare the best end.
a. Add the sleeve & nut.
b. Add the rubber & hose clamps to other end.
c. Install hose end first & loosely tighten clamps.
d. Align coupling nut end & torque to spec.
e. Align hose elbow with the tube & tighten clamps.
4.Find another piece 5/8" tube about 31" long, 3003-0 Versa-tube works good
for bending.
a. Flare one end.
b. Cut lower end at an angle of about 45 so it will face aft.
c. About 4" from lower end drill a 3/16" hole. Can be on front or back.
This allows crankcase to vent if ice clogs up the end of tube.
5. Align & fasten sleeve & coupling nut to bulkhead fitting, torque to spec.
6. Get 2 - AN742 - 10D plain clamps & 2 - MS21919DG10 cushion clamps.
Cost about $1.75 at Aircraft Spruce.
a. Align tube about 2" aft of upper engine mount bolt on upper leg of
engine mount tube.
b. Butterfly the plain & cushion clamps to tubes & mount with cushion
clamp on vent tube.
c. Use #10 screw & torque to spec.
6. Do the same with the other clamps & mount them on the lower leg of
the engine mount tube close to the firewall.

That should do it.
Mike Knemeyer

1410 Meadow Lane
Yellow Springs,Ohio 45387

3oh0
N83348 7AC-2015
N82146 7AC-772
Guest

Post by Guest »

mike, i seen one of these setups one time, my concern was that not only the oil would drain back into the crankcase, the moisture buildup would also, seen a couple of times in the winter when the end of the hose freezes shut from condensation, even with the 842 elbow pointing straight down. your example ive never tried so i dont know, what do you think? doug north dakota
Ron Babos
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Post by Ron Babos »

Guest: Running the breather tube higher as described will work in Florida, but where the rest of us live, not a great idea. You are correct in regards to the moisture running back, and since the small Continentals hardly reach the 175 and up temps needed to eliminate normal moisture that occurs, you don't want to add more to it. Moisture mixing with oil creates an acid that is very corrocive to steel engine components. An improperly mounted oil seporater will cause the same condition.
What engine and oil are you running, and what rmps do you cruise it at? Some engines like the c85 with Shell 15w50 are prone to barfing a lot of oil out even if the engine is in top shape. Two locally have that problem. One switched to 20/50 and the problem went away. The other feels his oil is better( ya right) and carries a big rag to clean the aircraft after flying.
Ron
Before you believe anything I say, check with two more people. If they agree, I must be right.
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Mikek
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Post by Mikek »

Anonymous wrote: seen a couple of times in the winter when the end of the hose freezes shut from condensation, even with the 842 elbow pointing straight down.

Do not know if it is a service hint or service letter but they do tell you to
drill a hole in the tube about 3 inches?? below the elbow still in the engine
compartment where the heat is so you still have would have a vent to
the outside of the case if it does freeze over.

First I would try the Cub hint of extending the 842 elbow with a tube that
extends farther into the case putting it out of the spray of oil. If you have
someone with an O-200 they already have that style but costly if you buy
it from Cessna. Use it to get the length of the extention.

I will try to post from work the newletter with a drawing.

Next I would try to get your engine p up to 170-180, check the baffling
that it is still long enough and laying to the front so during flight it is held
up againist the cowling. Also check for the baffles between the cylinders
2 "inverted V" shape held in by wire or a spring and rod.

Another thing would be to try an fly for 1 hr min. to get the heat up and
use winter kits to increase temp.

Mike Kne.
Mike Knemeyer

1410 Meadow Lane
Yellow Springs,Ohio 45387

3oh0
N83348 7AC-2015
N82146 7AC-772
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