Question about cracking paint....

[robmorgan]

In a few places my Chief has some cracking paint. I had someone who really seemed to know what he was talking about take a look at it. He saw that it had been cracked before (in the dope) and someone had just repainted over it. He said that what I needed was some dope rejuvenator and a possible light sanding and then to repaint it. He suggested modeling rejuvenator but unfortunately you can’t find it anymore due to the hazardous chemicals in it, score another one for our government protecting us. The painting part is no problem but what about the rejuvenator? Where can I get a very small quantity of it and does it matter what kind it is? I would ask him again but I have not seen him. I am in San Antonio TX if anyone knows of a place that I can get this stuff… Also, does the solution make sense?

Thanks

Rob

[Nathan K. Hammond]

That jives, assuming its dope.

Sand the crack down to silver, get some rejuvenator on a rag and rub it into the crack. It will loosen the silver and you can carefully blend the two sides of the crack together. Be gentle and try not to create plow marks in the soft paint. Then bring it back up through color.

If you can't find rejuvenator; thinner can work, but the crack may come back.

Rejuvenator is basically thinner, but has plastizers mixed in, which gives the paint back some flexibility.

As for a source, I'd start asking around the local airport. Usually there's a buddy of a buddy who has what you need.

nkh

[Jerry Jackson]

Rejuvenator is available from Aircraft Spruce. There is a good chance you can get it in San Antonio at United Aero, 135 Brannif, 210 227 8333.

Jerry Jackson
San Antonio

[brink]

This is an old post but lately I’ve seen a few aircraft with what I call spiderwebbing, one owner wasn’t bothered with it, but Ray wanted answers. Polyfibre has rejuvenator, I personally have never used it. But if you can find a Northrop manual their is a real good chapter on the subject. Talking to Other fabric guys it can start several ways, in Polyfibre that first coat of polybrush has to really penetrate the fabric, slight thinning of the polybrush can insure good penetration. And make sure the material used is mixed well. Harbor freight had a paint shaker that does a good job, don’t own one of them,but I turn the can upside down over nite and that helps, those drill sturers I don’t like, personnel reasons. I use a wood paddle and strain thru paper paint strainers, and be sure the brush is clean that you use. After I’ve completed the finishing part, and before I use poly spray I apply two thin coats of polybrush thru a primer gun. I know their are several ways and my way might cause spider webbing to, but that’s the way I apply up to Polyspray.

[Richard Murray]

Respectfully Brink, the PolyFiber techniques you describe differ so much from the procedure manual I am required to use to have a valid STC I'm not sure we are talking about the same covering system. 2 brushed coats of PolyBrush followed by 2 sprayed cross-coats of PolyBrush (thats 6 coats total) then 3 cross-coats of PolySpray (another 6 total) and you check it with a 100w light to be sure of UV coverage. Now you can put the top color coat on and it varies depending whether you are using PolyTone or PolyThane.

[Paul Agaliotis]

I'm just not a big fan of Stitts. Regardless of how tight you make the fabric, it tends to balloon in flight. One job slowed the airplane down at least 5 MPH. I think it has to be the Vinyl used as the base for their products. I've been using the Stewarts system for some repairs and really happy with the results. In the future I'll be doing more of this system.
Getting close to covering the L16 and deciding wether to use the last of my dope supplies on it or do it in Stewarts.
Paul

[Richard Murray]

Paul-

The Stewarts process is incredibly forgiving and easy if you forget everything you knew about covering and follow their procedure manual. I've not mastered the top coat application using Stewarts and freely admit its my fault. I have been tempted to apply the top coat with a roller to avoid the runs that appear 30 minutes after you walk away from a sprayed application.

I must credit Dan for showing me fabric can be molded with heat and patience. I'll never use bias ply tapes again having mastered the tecnique.

[brink]

I totally understand Respectfully,and in Texas not only myself, but other guys use the Stits process, personally spider Webb’s and cracking, recover the darn whatever,or live with it. Most of the guys I live around buy, they don’t build, then make comments about how their plane was always this and that, and blame guys like me for doing a poor job. Use what ever you Like, so what if you prefer,some other method, And I will use that word Respectfully do what ever floats your boat, I only try to help,and if somebody don’t like it, don’t do it, really simple. I’ve spoke with Bill many times, a fellow on the airport owns on e of bills Aeroncas he recovered and restored back in the early 90s, I’ve seen it, it’s a mess. Personally I think,maybe it was hit by hail at one time, I really don’t Know,and I really don’t care. About the plane or the guy that owns it. This post is not ment to offend, and it’s really only worth 1/2 cent.

[Paul Agaliotis]

Richard,
Using the iron to get those pesky edges down is the only way to go. I just hate that seam you just can't avoid in the bias tape. I agree with the Stewarts topcoat. You HAVE to use the specified gun which is one of the higher priced models. Viscosity is the key to the top coat and it goes on very dry, to the point your ashamed of the finish. After a coat or two you see it starting to flatten out.
We did the TA in Ceconite 7600 or the Blue River system and it's OK. The UV coat becomes very brittle and is the cause of the cracking. It's good they pulled it from the market. The same problems happened with the topcoat. It's like painting water and I never did master it. I ended up using an enamel topcoat, which I like.
Paul

[brink]

I know Paul: I have Hurd you can use any finish on Ceconite you desire, but Stits Closed the door by their STC you must use their system thru finish. Richard: in Stits you can apply as many coats as you like, but it’s advised you comply with the minimum, I don’t use aerothane, only Polytone not set up for aerothane. And I only paint when the temp and DuPoint is right, in Texas that’s not bad,and it occurs fairly often. Just for laughs and giggles, a few of us bet on how heavy my paint job would be. Did a before and after weight, for the record I lost, by 40 lbs. some fun,but I really learned something. Paint will surprise you, a lot of it goes in the air even when your painting with a HVLP, I bought a top loader from harbor freight to apply my finish coat. Might shoot my self in the foot over that one, cheaper than a Gallon of color! Complete with load tray! What a deal. Hey guys Merry Christmas!

[Paul Agaliotis]

You always need to comply with the STC as written. But a paint job on an aircraft without balanced surfaces is considered preventative maintenance. This can be logged by a private pilot.
Weighed many samples of finished fabric and the Stitts was about 30lbs heavier than Grade A. Superflight was the heaviest at just over 50lbs. This was based on a 500 sq.ft of surface.
Paul

[brink]

Hey Paul you have a Merry Christmas.