wing tip

[MikeB]

For those you who have rebuilt wings, what are you using to hold the tip down to the bow and prevent the sharp edges from cutting into the fabric? Superflite sends something they call "anti-chaff" tape" that looks suspeciously like duct tape. It works OK in most places but pretty hard to fit around a bend without causing bumps and ridges in the tape which would probably show through and, of course, you can't heat form it. Maybe a extra layer of finishing tape?? Also a bit concerned about where the tip edge winds around to the lower part of the wing as that's also pretty sharp with no support. I'm to the point of getting the wings ready to cover but I still have a lot of loose ends to figure out before I can slap the cover on. I'm going to use the blanket process rather than envelopes.

Thanks, Mike

[james gevay]

Mike, it looks like you have your leading edge tip worked out. When I pulled mine apart, there was some kind of tape around the edge of the aluminum and tip bow.
When I get to the point that your at I might be tempted to put some tape under the corner piece of the aluminum that sticks out against the fabric. On most of the Aeroncas that I've seen, that little corner is kind of prominent and shows itself under the fabric.

Do you have the tapered wood pieces under the edge of the last aluminum piece and the top of the spars?

[MikeB]

Jim,
I do have the tapered wood under the tip and the spar. This pix is actually from the left wing and in looking at it, I'm thinking my right wing tip might be coming out too far on the bow (unlike this one) so I may have to cut it so it rides further back on the bow. I looked at all three Champs on our airport today trying to get ideas regarding the fit. I think one of them actually has the tip material short of the bow or at least that's the way it feels. I may try to roll the little wrap around so I don't have a sharp edge sticking out.

I think I'm done with my employment (bus driving) for the summer so I can stick with this job a little longer and hopefully make some progress.

MikeB

[Paul Agaliotis]

Mike,
I put the sheetmetal about 1/3 to 1/2 back from the front of the tube. Just kind of split the diameter of the tube. Once the tip metal fasteners are in place it won't move. I have used masking tape and first-aid tape to secure the sheet metal,both will work. I use masking tape on just about all of the surfaces the fabric will touch.
Paul

[james gevay]

I would do exactly what Paul said, if you have enough material, cut it so that it rests about midway on the tubing and lays flush, put some tape on it you should be good to go.

[MikeB]

Great minds run alike! That's exactly what I did this afternoon.....trimmed off the outside edge and taped it down with the SF anti-chaff tape. Like I said, it looks like duct tape to me. Not exactly satisfied with the way the tape lays but looks like it will do the job. I thought everything I read said not to use masking tape as it absorbs moisture although that's what I found when I tore the wings apart and Lord knows how long they were together.

Other end with Wag Aero fuel tank installed. I'll have to use PK screws to hold the fabric down over the fuel tank rather than pop rivets....and no, the rib webbing is not tight yet.


One thing I forgot was the upper spar access inspection kit. Seeing I'm going with the 0200 engine (more than 90 horse) I suppose I better put them in....more $$$$. I have the Champions on my Champ. The other two on the airport have the Rainbow kit. I guess either is good although the Rainbow gives you a little better access.

Mike

[Paul Agaliotis]

Mike,
All of the masking tape I have ever pulled ouy was as dry as tinder. But is was still in place, which I think is a good sign.
Many manufacturers will try to get you to buy their stuff by knocking other products or by regulating the use of their products only during repair.
I'm not saying to disregard the instructions, only to be open to the possibility of other solutions.
Paul

[MikeB]

Paul,
Understand completely. Like I said this stuff must have been on the wings since Wilbur and Orville. I'm quite sure the stuff that Superflite sells is plain old duct tape with a new price (note on the fuel tank). To be honest I'm not that sold on SF any more as I've run into cracking problems with our cold weather up here. It's nice and flexible in our warm summer months but it doesn't take much of a push to cause a crack in the paint when the skis are on and you need to move the plane around. Of course I've seen paint cracks in other products too, including dope.

Mike

[Paul Agaliotis]

Mike,
Carl and I did some research out here on the weight difference of available covering systems. Based on 500 sq ft of area Superflight will weigh just over 30lbs more than a dope finish. The cold temperature makes any system brittle.
We just started using Stewarts System on some flight controls and pleased with the results. I haven't shot any paint yet.
Paul

[MikeB]

Everything I've read and looked at on the Stewart Systems looks good. Certainly has less nasty stuff in it but I'm not sure how flexible it is either when the temperature gets around zero or so. One thing you guys on the coast don't need to worry about. The poly fiber system does seem to be more 'rubbery' and flexible. I only started using the SF system as I helped a guy with his cover job and that's what he was using at the time. As you mentioned, it's heavy though.

Mike