I need to change the oil and clean the screen on my A65, Aeronca Champ I bought last month. Put 15 hours on it already! Does anyone have a link to photos and instructions on how I get to and clean the screen? I bought a Saf-Air Qwik drain already. Thank you!
Doc
Hello all. Just sent in my check to join!
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drskyking
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2005 20:14
- Location: Ballston Spa, KSCH, Upstate NY
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Hello all. Just sent in my check to join!
Doc
1946 Champ 7AC, NC85082
Scotia, NY KSCH
SEL IFR COMM
1946 Champ 7AC, NC85082
Scotia, NY KSCH
SEL IFR COMM
Hi Doc, Welcome to the site. I'm not familiar with any publication that shows you by photo, etc. how to clean the screen, but I've done it dozens of times.
Basically, you remove the oil temperature sender on the left side of the engine (viewed from the rear) I believe it takes a 5/8th wrench. One note, be careful when you are backing off the temperature bulb retaining nut, you aren't also winding up the sender bulb connector tube as it will twist off and break.
After pulling the sender some oil will usually spill out so have a catch basin of some type ready. After that, it's just a matter of taking a wrench and unscrewing the large nut that lets access ot the oil screen. Check it carefully for metal filings.
It's not unusual to find a small piece now and then, but you shouldn't find a large amount of filings or chunks. Do this often enough and you will start to establish a 'baseline' of what looks 'normal' between changes. You can rinse the screen out in solvent, etc. and blow dry with compressed air if you have a source.
I usually reach into the cavity and feel around for any filings, etc. that might not be on the screen. Not unusual to find carbon deposits, etc. lurking around the screen area either. Beyond that reassemble with a new gasket if you have one and safety wire (to the tach drive in my case).
Run the engine and check for leaks (after you put in four quarts of oil, I might add). Be sure to make a proper log book entry, sign and date it with your certificate number.
Good luck and hope you enjoy your Champ.
Basically, you remove the oil temperature sender on the left side of the engine (viewed from the rear) I believe it takes a 5/8th wrench. One note, be careful when you are backing off the temperature bulb retaining nut, you aren't also winding up the sender bulb connector tube as it will twist off and break.
After pulling the sender some oil will usually spill out so have a catch basin of some type ready. After that, it's just a matter of taking a wrench and unscrewing the large nut that lets access ot the oil screen. Check it carefully for metal filings.
It's not unusual to find a small piece now and then, but you shouldn't find a large amount of filings or chunks. Do this often enough and you will start to establish a 'baseline' of what looks 'normal' between changes. You can rinse the screen out in solvent, etc. and blow dry with compressed air if you have a source.
I usually reach into the cavity and feel around for any filings, etc. that might not be on the screen. Not unusual to find carbon deposits, etc. lurking around the screen area either. Beyond that reassemble with a new gasket if you have one and safety wire (to the tach drive in my case).
Run the engine and check for leaks (after you put in four quarts of oil, I might add). Be sure to make a proper log book entry, sign and date it with your certificate number.
Good luck and hope you enjoy your Champ.
"If God had intended man to fly He would have given us more money"
Oil Screen
Doc,
The oil temp bulb and oil screen are sealed using copper crush gaskets (AN900-10 and AN900-28 respectively.) These items should not be reused if possible. One source is Aircraft Spruce (visit http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/an900.php).
When checking the screen don't get excited if you find a little carbon, that's normal. You may also find a few specks of metal, especially if you are still breaking the engine in. As Mike said, a little is OK but excessive amounts are a reason for further investigation. Sometimes the carbon particles may have a shiny side and be mistaken for metal flecks.
You might try passing a magnet around the screen to see whether any metal is aluminum or steel, which can be a clue to where it is coming from.
Tim Juhl
The oil temp bulb and oil screen are sealed using copper crush gaskets (AN900-10 and AN900-28 respectively.) These items should not be reused if possible. One source is Aircraft Spruce (visit http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/an900.php).
When checking the screen don't get excited if you find a little carbon, that's normal. You may also find a few specks of metal, especially if you are still breaking the engine in. As Mike said, a little is OK but excessive amounts are a reason for further investigation. Sometimes the carbon particles may have a shiny side and be mistaken for metal flecks.
You might try passing a magnet around the screen to see whether any metal is aluminum or steel, which can be a clue to where it is coming from.
Tim Juhl
Doc,
Great to have you on the list. One thing to add to the excellent information above is that since the plane is new to you it might be worthwhile to spend $20 or so and have the oil checked. You can send it into a lab and they will check it for metals and such and tell you more about the internal condition of the engine. Its cheap insurance!
Fly safe,
Joe A
Great to have you on the list. One thing to add to the excellent information above is that since the plane is new to you it might be worthwhile to spend $20 or so and have the oil checked. You can send it into a lab and they will check it for metals and such and tell you more about the internal condition of the engine. Its cheap insurance!
Fly safe,
Joe A
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Guest
Doc,
If the above post is yours, showing "guest" instead of Doc, then either your browser is not using cookies or you posted without logging in. Its not a problem but when you post to a new thread, or start a new thread you will not receive an email reply about that post.
Thanks,
JoeA
PS You will learn a lot more in the Aeronca than the C-172. Both are good planes but the spam can just not as fun.
If the above post is yours, showing "guest" instead of Doc, then either your browser is not using cookies or you posted without logging in. Its not a problem but when you post to a new thread, or start a new thread you will not receive an email reply about that post.
Thanks,
JoeA
PS You will learn a lot more in the Aeronca than the C-172. Both are good planes but the spam can just not as fun.
Nice orginal looking Champ. I always thought I'd like wheel pants on mine to keep the mud, etc. from getting on the struts and wings; but never got around to it (and I have 8" tires at present anyway).
One other thought: not sure if you're familiar with the A series engines; but they do have a habit of losing their oil system prime if they sit for a few days (some do/some don't). You might make it a habit of checking for oil pressure indication as soon as the engine starts. It shouldn't take more than a few seconds. If it happens, there are a couple of things you can do: lift the tail high enough to let some of the oil run out of the screen cavity to prime the oil pump or (my preference) remove the oil temperature bulb at the oil screen adapter and squirt some clean engine oil into the screen adapter and replace the bulb, of course. Number one will work sometimes/number two always works....at least for me.
I only mention it because I've seen a couple of occasions where someone has let the engine run for a minute or two before he noticed there was no oil pressure, which I'm sure doesn't do the bearings and crank any good over the long run
.
One other thought: not sure if you're familiar with the A series engines; but they do have a habit of losing their oil system prime if they sit for a few days (some do/some don't). You might make it a habit of checking for oil pressure indication as soon as the engine starts. It shouldn't take more than a few seconds. If it happens, there are a couple of things you can do: lift the tail high enough to let some of the oil run out of the screen cavity to prime the oil pump or (my preference) remove the oil temperature bulb at the oil screen adapter and squirt some clean engine oil into the screen adapter and replace the bulb, of course. Number one will work sometimes/number two always works....at least for me.
I only mention it because I've seen a couple of occasions where someone has let the engine run for a minute or two before he noticed there was no oil pressure, which I'm sure doesn't do the bearings and crank any good over the long run
."If God had intended man to fly He would have given us more money"
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Nathan K. Hammond
- Posts: 2371
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- Location: Danville, KY (DVK)
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This worries me. He has less than 10 posts and already knows how to post a picture. I am the admin and it took me a lot longer, but am not a Doc either! 
Very nice looking airplane and glad to see you came to the right place for help. Hope you make it to the NAA fly-in at Middletown Ohio (also known as the factory where our planes were born, or hatched!) next summer!
JoeA
Very nice looking airplane and glad to see you came to the right place for help. Hope you make it to the NAA fly-in at Middletown Ohio (also known as the factory where our planes were born, or hatched!) next summer!
JoeA
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drskyking
- Posts: 65
- Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2005 20:14
- Location: Ballston Spa, KSCH, Upstate NY
- Contact:
I must have one of the engines that holds its prime. After sitting all week oil pressure springs right up to 35 psi in seconds. Even with a couple cold starts at 27-30 degrees. Already looking for skiis. Saw a pair on Ebay but they got away from me. Have 3 friends up here with skiis for theirs. I am 3 miles from KSCH, that was a good guess, I was climbing out of a small grass strip along the Mohawk 4 nm NW of SCH, K13, Mohawk Valley Airport, where I fly skydivers in the summer and fall. Have close to 1000 hrs in Cessnas, Piper Archer and other nose wheel planes, did a nice close to 180 ground loop twice the first couple days with a 10kt 20 degree Left xwind. What a humbling embarrasing experience, couldn't believe how easy the upwind wing rises with that wind and how far over I have to push the stick! No damage, got right back on the runway (paved of course) and made nice wheel then full stall landings holding that wing down and right rudder...Hopefully no more ground loops for a LONG time! Love the plane though...
Appreciate the nice comments, looking forward to the fly in and the magazine and reading the forums. I am an active on line flyer with Flight Sim 2004 if anyone wants a model of my Champ to fly that you could modify to make your own if you know how to manipulate the textures.
Appreciate the nice comments, looking forward to the fly in and the magazine and reading the forums. I am an active on line flyer with Flight Sim 2004 if anyone wants a model of my Champ to fly that you could modify to make your own if you know how to manipulate the textures.
Doc
1946 Champ 7AC, NC85082
Scotia, NY KSCH
SEL IFR COMM
1946 Champ 7AC, NC85082
Scotia, NY KSCH
SEL IFR COMM