Just started assembly of a 7AC (apparently a 7DC, but not sure I know the difference yet).
There is a document on the workbench that the owners used to order new bolts. It clearly shows the outboard strut attach bolts as (front to back) AN6-24 and AN 5-15 rear.
These are so clearly incorrect that it boggles the mind - it looks to me that the proper bolts are AN5-16 and AN5-25.
Do I have a bogus document? I will get title and source today.
I might have a question about engine mounting - on the J3 it is quite specific about fiber washers under metal washers. Is that the same for Aeroncas?
Aeronca parts manual?
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bob turner
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- Richard Murray
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Re: Aeronca parts manual?
The parts manuals the NAA sells are reproductions of the original manual, errors and all. I can't recall the known issues at this time and I just faced the same problem attaching wings on a Chief.
There are no fiber washers used on the Aeronca.
There are no fiber washers used on the Aeronca.
Richard
Re: Aeronca parts manual?
I did a total rebuild of my 7AC Champ from 1988 to 1997 that had already been converted to a 7DC.
I put in new spars, new struts, all new nuts and bolts , a different engine and just about everything else.
Being my airplane is 50 feet from my house I went out to see what the size the wing bolts are.
The front strut is attached to the front spar with a AN5 bolt.
The rear strut is attached to the rear spar with a AN6 bolt
My service manual also calls for this size bolts.
Hope this helps.
I put in new spars, new struts, all new nuts and bolts , a different engine and just about everything else.
Being my airplane is 50 feet from my house I went out to see what the size the wing bolts are.
The front strut is attached to the front spar with a AN5 bolt.
The rear strut is attached to the rear spar with a AN6 bolt
My service manual also calls for this size bolts.
Hope this helps.
Don
7DC Champ
N84032
7DC Champ
N84032
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bob turner
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Re: Aeronca parts manual?
I found a list. It was close - I will try to remember to bring my notes home and post.
So the wings and jury struts are on - and now I need to un-twist the aileron cables. Had to machine a steel ferrule for one of the pulleys. Maybe tomorrow for the cables and pulleys, then tailfeathers, and the shop can do the annual and engine installation. Wearing me out. Good experience if I ever have to disassemble my Decathlon.
So the wings and jury struts are on - and now I need to un-twist the aileron cables. Had to machine a steel ferrule for one of the pulleys. Maybe tomorrow for the cables and pulleys, then tailfeathers, and the shop can do the annual and engine installation. Wearing me out. Good experience if I ever have to disassemble my Decathlon.
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bob turner
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Re: Aeronca parts manual?
Slowly getting there. Wings and ailerons are on - darn near every bolt is different, and the drawings do have flaws.
Tomorrow I start the tail feathers - there are two fat aluminum pulley-like affairs, a flimsy U-shape bracket, and a turnbuckle barrel in a bag. I am truly hoping they are part of the trim system. If I don't figure it out manana, I will post a photo.
Assume I can post photos here?![Image]()
Tomorrow I start the tail feathers - there are two fat aluminum pulley-like affairs, a flimsy U-shape bracket, and a turnbuckle barrel in a bag. I am truly hoping they are part of the trim system. If I don't figure it out manana, I will post a photo.
Assume I can post photos here?
- Richard Murray
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Re: Aeronca parts manual?
Bob
It sounds as if the pulleys are indeed part of the trim system. To post a picture you need to have ha hosting service such as photobucket, dorpbox, etc and post the link to the shared photo.
Richard
It sounds as if the pulleys are indeed part of the trim system. To post a picture you need to have ha hosting service such as photobucket, dorpbox, etc and post the link to the shared photo.
Richard
Richard
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bob turner
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Re: Aeronca parts manual?
What a relief! Thanks! I have Shutterfly, and maybe it is time to share.
Turnbuckles are a tad beefier than the Cub, and I am finding that to use an “L” washer under the nut I need to squeeze the clevis. Not comfortable with squeezing turnbuckle forks.
Also found a locknut on the aileron pushrod attach point. Thinking of changing that to a castle/cotter pin. Unfortunately, cables are now tensioned.
Learning experience for a long-time Cub mechanic.
Turnbuckles are a tad beefier than the Cub, and I am finding that to use an “L” washer under the nut I need to squeeze the clevis. Not comfortable with squeezing turnbuckle forks.
Also found a locknut on the aileron pushrod attach point. Thinking of changing that to a castle/cotter pin. Unfortunately, cables are now tensioned.
Learning experience for a long-time Cub mechanic.
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bob turner
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Re: Aeronca parts manual?
No pictures today. The aluminum pulleys are indeed trim tab components, and went on easily.
What is not so easy is the elevator control cables. When full down, the top cable attach is buried inside the vertical fin. I am sure somebody has small enough hands to go in there, but it isn't me. I show somewhere between 32 and 34 degrees down for the elevators with respect to the stabilizer (nails only in the hinges, so not completely accurate) - I will check the type certificate for the correct angles - but I am thinking maybe disable the down elevator stop, just to get that bolt in?
So on the internet, one "Bob Parker" posted the following - I had to make some changes to get the right grip length:
Wing strut outboard - front - AN 5-15 (I used 5-16A)
Rear AN 6-24 (I used 6-24 A and a shear nut - I think it could have been one size longer and two washers.
Wing strut lower inboard - main is AN 6-16 (I used 16 A, and it was perfect).
Wing strut lower clevis - AN 5-7 (I used AN 5-10A with one washer; just enough threads showing. Tight.)
Front spar to fuselage - AN 6-14 front, AN 4-13 rear. Perfect.
So, hints on the elevator control cables? I think tomorrow the plan is to release one cable at the control stick, so I have some slack. And maybe to pull the control stop bolt out for a minute?
Tough on an old guy - I can still learn new tricks, but two hours of this in a day and I am ready to fly the Cub, or have a beer, or something.
What is not so easy is the elevator control cables. When full down, the top cable attach is buried inside the vertical fin. I am sure somebody has small enough hands to go in there, but it isn't me. I show somewhere between 32 and 34 degrees down for the elevators with respect to the stabilizer (nails only in the hinges, so not completely accurate) - I will check the type certificate for the correct angles - but I am thinking maybe disable the down elevator stop, just to get that bolt in?
So on the internet, one "Bob Parker" posted the following - I had to make some changes to get the right grip length:
Wing strut outboard - front - AN 5-15 (I used 5-16A)
Rear AN 6-24 (I used 6-24 A and a shear nut - I think it could have been one size longer and two washers.
Wing strut lower inboard - main is AN 6-16 (I used 16 A, and it was perfect).
Wing strut lower clevis - AN 5-7 (I used AN 5-10A with one washer; just enough threads showing. Tight.)
Front spar to fuselage - AN 6-14 front, AN 4-13 rear. Perfect.
So, hints on the elevator control cables? I think tomorrow the plan is to release one cable at the control stick, so I have some slack. And maybe to pull the control stop bolt out for a minute?
Tough on an old guy - I can still learn new tricks, but two hours of this in a day and I am ready to fly the Cub, or have a beer, or something.
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bob turner
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Re: Aeronca parts manual?
Really struggling with the bolts holding the turnbuckles to the elevator, especiaally the upper one. This afternoon I grabbed a young, talented mechanic: "Here, you try!"
He couldn't get it either.
Tonight I will build a special tool - a bullet bolt on the end of a brass extrusion.
But it has to be the same as the Decathlon/Citabria? I just cannot get my fingers in there, even with the down-stop removed and the inner hinge pins out.
Surely somebody around here has assembled a Champ?
He couldn't get it either.
Tonight I will build a special tool - a bullet bolt on the end of a brass extrusion.
But it has to be the same as the Decathlon/Citabria? I just cannot get my fingers in there, even with the down-stop removed and the inner hinge pins out.
Surely somebody around here has assembled a Champ?