Cleavland 4028 wheels

Ron Babos · Post by **Ron Babos** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 21:58

Normally I would file some material onto a piece of paper and light it to see if they are magnesium or aluminum but it's too cold to monkey with that at the moment.
I'm planning a tire change and repaint on the rims and need to know what the rim material is to base the primer selection on.
Anybody know for sure if they are aluminum or magnesium. Same wheel used on some pipers with disc brakes. 4028 or 3040 Cleavlands.
Thanks,
Ron

Nathan K. Hammond · Post by **Nathan K. Hammond** » Sun Feb 26, 2006 00:07

Ron
I want to say they're Aluminum, but not 100% on that. Best get a 2 opinion or burn some material. In the past, I've used a 2-part epoxy (Poly-Fiber most of the time) and a urethane top coat if desired. Seems to work fairly well.

nkh

Ron Babos · Post by **Ron Babos** » Sun Feb 26, 2006 09:51

Nathan: Found the solution for a primer. Normally I would use what you did, or other chromate types if it's aluminum. Magnesiun is another story. Chromate will actually set up corrosion with the magnesium with a chemical reaction and in about a year the paint will come off in sheets.
Discovered something called P.O.R 15 self etching primer. Good for both materials . Actually the whole paint line is friggin amazing for all those special tasks that we often come across. Google por paints for the whole scoop of different applications.
Ron

Nathan K. Hammond · Post by **Nathan K. Hammond** » Sun Feb 26, 2006 13:45

Nice lookin stuff, does seem to be quite flexible for applications. Ron, you get that bird on it's gear yet?

nkh

Ron Babos · Post by **Ron Babos** » Sun Feb 26, 2006 13:58

Nathan: Case frames done, struts done, new tires, chromed discs, stainless tail wires, new tail wheel all sitting in the basement waiting for better weather.
Just came back from a holiday in Panama and can't stand to go outside. Too cold to work in an unheated hanger.

Must be getting old or something.
Ron

Nate: did you notice the high heat stuff? May this one will actually work?

Dennis · Post by **Dennis** » Sun Feb 26, 2006 16:32

Have you thought about powder coating the wheels? It looks great.

Dennis

Ron Babos · Post by **Ron Babos** » Sun Feb 26, 2006 19:21

Dennis: I agree the powder looks good, but most of the plane is a fifty footter, except engine, prop , landing gear and the panel. Urethan just seems easier and quicker at this late date.
Ron

Post by **joea** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 02:24

One other issue with powder coating, and I love it by the way. We have to inspect our wheels for cracking, which they do and far too often. With powder coating trying to remove the paint to inspect for cracks is almost impossible, so not sure that powder coating is a good idea for these parts.

Joe A

Dennis · Post by **Dennis** » Mon Feb 27, 2006 15:19

Good point Joe A. To emphasize your point, I first powder coated the wheels red. Did not like the looks so I stripped the coating and recoated with white. Talk about a lot of work, removing the powder! I cussed them wheels up one side and down the other.

BTW, I am using the 1500# wheels, not the 1000# wheels.

Just finished painting my boot cowling. Don't know yet if it is a fiftyfooter or a twentyfooter till it is on the plane in the sun light. My lower cowling is completed/painted. I used an english wheel to form fit the lower back side of the cowling to the firewall. Today I hope to "plumb" the fuel lines from the header tank up to the wing tanks. I think I will locate the shutoff valve at the top of the narrow "V" (not the top "V") between the outer tube and the inner tube of the "V". If all goes well, Murphy does no jump up and bite me, I will put gas in the header tank for the first time in 17 years. Crossing my fingers for no leaks.

Dennis