Mag Switch
Mag Switch
...I've got an AAF Type A7 Mag switch and I'd like to take the (red) knob/selector switch off to sand and paint it.
I know I could mask it off and paint, but it wouldn't be as neat a job. It looks like the selector actually goes under
the faceplate. I was not wanting to bend back the "prongs" on the back side to take it apart fearing
that they would break off if I bend them out, and then bend back in.
How do I take this thing apart without creating more problems? Jim
I know I could mask it off and paint, but it wouldn't be as neat a job. It looks like the selector actually goes under
the faceplate. I was not wanting to bend back the "prongs" on the back side to take it apart fearing
that they would break off if I bend them out, and then bend back in.
How do I take this thing apart without creating more problems? Jim
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Yes the write up was in the Vintage Airplane, the Antique Classic division's magazine.
It described how take the mag switches apart and clean the contacts up, but it did not go into taking the handle part off. You would have to drill out 2 rivets, one each at 3 and 6 0-clock on the face plate.
I've wanted to do the same, to paint the handle and face plate, but I'm worried if the new AN rivets would interfere with the middle mechanism and keep it from rotating.
This is what the switch looks like inside, this is an A-8, probably nearly identical to an A-7.

Looking at the second picture, I don't think the new rivets would interfer with the middle part that rotates, but don't take my word on it. It looks like the middle part is off center but it's not, it's just the angle from the picture.
By the way, can anyone tell me what the orginal color was on the switch handle? I don't think it was bright red, I think it was a dull reddish brown, almost like a maroon.

It described how take the mag switches apart and clean the contacts up, but it did not go into taking the handle part off. You would have to drill out 2 rivets, one each at 3 and 6 0-clock on the face plate.
I've wanted to do the same, to paint the handle and face plate, but I'm worried if the new AN rivets would interfere with the middle mechanism and keep it from rotating.
This is what the switch looks like inside, this is an A-8, probably nearly identical to an A-7.

Looking at the second picture, I don't think the new rivets would interfer with the middle part that rotates, but don't take my word on it. It looks like the middle part is off center but it's not, it's just the angle from the picture.
By the way, can anyone tell me what the orginal color was on the switch handle? I don't think it was bright red, I think it was a dull reddish brown, almost like a maroon.

Guys, ...I searched till I was "blue-in-the-face" but couldn't find the article.
Thanks to James, he came thru with the photos. Looks like you do have to bend back the prongs
and drill the rivets to separate the switch knob.
James, just one other thing, ...what kind of clocks do you folks have in MN?
3 and 6 0-clock on the face plate
...just kiddin', thanks Jim
Thanks to James, he came thru with the photos. Looks like you do have to bend back the prongs
and drill the rivets to separate the switch knob.
James, just one other thing, ...what kind of clocks do you folks have in MN?
3 and 6 0-clock on the face plate
...just kiddin', thanks Jim
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Bill Pancake's Aeronca Article
Would the April, 2003 edition of the EAA Vintage Aviation magazine be the one you're looking for? That has a great article on his 7AC, NC1809E, the blue and white champ, lovingly created with a Chief nose, McDowell starter, a 13 gallon tank in each wing and the Chief paint scheme. He built this masterpiece virtually from scratch. To me, it's like flying artwork.
I keep the article on my garage wall for inspiration.
Here's the URL:
http://www.vintageaircraft.org/featured ... %20Way.pdf
I keep the article on my garage wall for inspiration.
Here's the URL:
http://www.vintageaircraft.org/featured ... %20Way.pdf
Re: Mag Switch
Was wondering if anyone has come up with the original colors, (black and red)? I am in the process of redoing the switch also and would like to paint it to original colors. Thanks.
Keith Wernsman
7AC-6609 N3023E
7AC-6609 N3023E
Re: Mag Switch
I just did one with out taking it apart. I just removed the old paint from the whole front of the switch and wiped down with MEK.
I then cleaned out the lettering and taped off the back side of the switch. Then I carefuly masked the black portion and and painted the lever. Let it dry completely. Carefuly pull the tape off, carefull not to pull any of the red off. Ounce the lever is cured carefuly mask the lever. I then painted the black portion with very light coats to avoid filling in the lettering.
After all are dry I used a fine pick the clean out the lettering. Using a tooth pick I put some white enamal in the lettering and let it sit for a little while to set up then wipped it with a smooth cloth to get rid of the ecess white, be carefrull here not wiped the paint out of the lettering.
All done.
I then cleaned out the lettering and taped off the back side of the switch. Then I carefuly masked the black portion and and painted the lever. Let it dry completely. Carefuly pull the tape off, carefull not to pull any of the red off. Ounce the lever is cured carefuly mask the lever. I then painted the black portion with very light coats to avoid filling in the lettering.
After all are dry I used a fine pick the clean out the lettering. Using a tooth pick I put some white enamal in the lettering and let it sit for a little while to set up then wipped it with a smooth cloth to get rid of the ecess white, be carefrull here not wiped the paint out of the lettering.
All done.
Re: Mag Switch
This is an old post,but I’ve been looking for a Magneto Switch and I found one, needed to be painted, I used Paint stripper and very careful with a very lite coat, paint came right off, several coats and finally got down to the zinc Cromate, I cleaned it off using paper towels, and did a masking job to isolate the lever. Used 400 wet or dry, and did a lite sanding job, to smooth out the lever.The stripper cleaned all the acid and oil off the lever. I used phosphate cromate, the switch works perfectly, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it! This switch had so much paint on it you could barely see the lettering. They had painted right over the corrosion, I had some naval jelley,and that fixed the corrosion, used more stripper,and that removed the Navel jelly. I think the best way to paint the switch is to mask,and paint the lever red with a raddle can. I then use petroleum jelly on the lever,and painted the black.The stripper and tooth picks cleaned up the caked on paint in the lettering, just painting one of these switches if done right takes time, I cut thru about 4 layers of paint,and finally hit white paint,in the lettering. Using Q-tips and MEK.
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