Best Fabric to cover with?

[H Lee]

What is the best system. Thinking Superflight. Any sugestions.
Also Envlopes or not. Thanks for any info.

Time to cover 7AC.

Lee Berrier NC

[MikeB]

Lee,
You're going to get a lot of opinions for sure.
I've used Superflite on the three I've covered. It's OK and fairly easy to work with. Also covers a lot of sins if the need be. It's also heavier than the other systems. Because it's polyurathane, you need some kind of fresh air supply for breathing purposes when priming and painting. The glue is also pretty MEK intensive which I'm sure is not the best for breathing (I wear a mask when glueing). I probably wouldn't have used it on my last cover job (L16) but I had materials left over from a previous cover job that I wanted to use up. Having said that, when all is said and done, it has a nice hard and shiney finish that stands up well and I've been satisified with the job as a whole.

Most seem to use Poly-Fiber now. A friend of mine is doing another L16 with Poly-Fiber and it seems to be working out well. I'm guessing most on this forum either used PF or the dope system. I've never used either so I can't speak to them.

If I was doing another (which I probably won't) I'd seriously look at the Stewart System which is water based and doesn't have all the nasty chemicals involved or so I've been told. Even the new car paint jobs are water based now so there must be some track record. I think it's worth investigating anyway (in my humble opinion).

I cover everything except the fuselage with blanket cover. A envelope seems to work best for the fuselage unless you want to sew two pieces together or wrap it around a stringer which really isn't recommended although it appears that's the way it was first covered at the factory. My friend with the other L16 is using envelopes for everything.

Mike Berg

[CptKelly]

Mike,
Did you ever get that 337 approved for you to use pop rivets on your L-16 project? I assume the FAA located the lost application.

Mike in SC

[joea]

Mike,

Believe that he got the green light a few weeks ago! Only 6-9 months to get something approved that did not require approval (IMHO) in the first place!

Just wait until the new administration gets in office and we get MORE govt in our lives!

Joe

[MikeB]

I did finally get approval . I'm not sure where the hangup was but we finally had to submit a ICA form (Instructions for Continued Airworthiness) as part of the 337. Anyway, I now have it in my 'formerly grease stained fingers' (now glue stained) and is part of the records. I sent a copy to Todd Trainer to post on Aeronca.com but if someone needs an approved copy, and it will help them out, I have scanned it to "My Documents" and can forward it to them.

Mike Berg

[Paul Agaliotis]

Lee,
I do my covering with Ceconite and dope. As soon as my supplies are used I'll be switching to the Stewart System. In the future, most of the toxic products will be discontinued.
Paul

[markl]

I teach fabric work for a living and find that Polyfiber has the most advantages. It can be sprayed at a great variety of temperatures and is fireproof. Pinked edges lay down easily with an iron and little sanding is required. I advise my customers to avoid envelopes as I have had to send too many back for remaking. For a fuselage just pin/mark a length of cloth on Your airplane and have a local boat of upholstery place sew it. Take the Part 43 picture of approved seams along with you.
Any questions feel free to email me at markl@intercom.net

[gusc]

My limited experience has been only with dope/ceconite and PF. PF is hands down the best in my opinion, it is so much easier to work with.

Glossy finish is not an issue to me, original finishes weren't glossy!! I like gloss on metal but not fabric.

[markl]

Dear Mike
Please send me a copy of 337 for pop rivets on an L-16 as I am just starting an L-16 project. Thanks

[MikeB]

Tony.
Will send out as an email attachment. Let me know if it doesn't come through. I think there's four or five sheets.
Mike

[Paul Agaliotis]

If you look at the lastest Wag-Aero catalog with the orange Cub on it. You can see an example of the fabric ballooning between the ribs. I don't know what covering system was used but this has been my problem when using Stitts stuff. You just can't keep it tight enough. It tends to slow the airplanes down.
Paul

[seaheli]

I prefer Ceconite and dope for recover. I have used Ceconite, Razorback (heavy), Stitts and Cotton. I do not know anything about the water based products.

Stitts is the least favorite because of the Isocyanates in the paint system.

Paul, I feel that dope keeps the fabric tight over the structure, and it tightens as it ages, unlike the other processes.

Charles

[Muskokabob]

I am just finishing recovering my tail feathers (Aeronca Sedan) actually rebuilt everything. I used the Stewart System and am very pleased with it. I have used Randolph in the past was familiar with the smell and "dope" highs. I did all the work in the basement of my house, with the exception of the spray painting. I can attest that there was absolutely no odor! Not one word of complaint from my wife!
The whole covering process from start to finish is much easier and quicker with the Stewart system and once I learned how to follow directions it was dead easy. Only downside that I can see is the fact you need to have 70-80 degree temperature in your spray booth to spray correctly. I highly recommend it.

Muskokabob

[Paul Agaliotis]

Charles,
I also use the Ceconite and dope currently. And I don't have the balloon effect. When my supplies are exhausted I plan to switch to the Stewart System. I have used the Poly covering methods and don't see any advantages. Their finish colors have a real tough time out in the sun. They fade and chalk when exposed to ultra-violet radiation on an extended basis. The dope finish will also but cleans up a lot easier. For a plane kept outside you can't beat enamel. Even after 10 years it still looks good.
Paul